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#3495392 - 02/19/09 05:41 PM what are the cheapest, most effective upgrades?
Fratt3 Offline
Newbie


Registered: 02/22/07
Posts: 54
i have a 99 EM1 with i/h/e, underdrive pullies, cam gears, shoft shifter, and a clutch/flywheel. im tryin to hit a 14 flat. my shit is like slow as dirt right now cuz i gotta fix some stuff but my best time so far was a 15.5. what would be the best mods be next to try to achieve my goal. i have a turbo kit thats been sittin around, its brand new but im not really tryin to boost it having like 107,xxx miles, im tryin to stay n/a or get some spray but i dont know what would be more cost effective. any advice would help. thanks
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#3499186 - 02/20/09 09:22 PM Re: what are the cheapest, most effective upgrades? [Re: Fratt3]
MiataOwner Offline
FUCK YOU!
Post Master Supreme


Registered: 10/31/99
Posts: 26914
Loc: Walking in Memphis...
Cheapest and most effective? Learn to drive.

Seriously, you could sit there and throw parts at it all day, but if you're running mid-15's with an EM1 with all those parts, then you're pretty much hanging with a huge pile of stock Si's that could do the same. Unless you live a mile above sea level, there's probably a 14-second timeslip in that car somewhere if it had a good driver.

Want continued cheapness? Remove weight. Gut the interior from fore to aft, leave only the driver's seat and the dash. Go to the drags on a 1/4 tank of gas (or less) and take a full 5-gallon jug of gasoline. Remove the jug and race, there's another few dozen pounds.

Wanna keep going? Go buy some 13x9 steelies with some psycho offset and some drag radials -- just for the front. The overall smaller diameter of tire will effectively lower your gearing, which means faster acceleration. The far-enhanced grip can potentially reduce your 60ft times by a half second or more, depending on how crappy your current launches are.

Now, you've got a 14-second monster. Granted, it probably wouldn't do that on the streets, but since you're mentioning drag race ET's, then I only provided options that were specific to drag racing.
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#3503512 - 02/22/09 10:32 PM Re: what are the cheapest, most effective upgrades? [Re: MiataOwner]
del_slo Offline
Post Master Sr


Registered: 12/01/03
Posts: 4785
Loc: Bottom of the boooot
before i say you need to practice driving... what are your 60 foot times, what tires are you running and what is your trap speed. U should be @ 2.2 60 foot times now... probably 2.1 60' would be needed to hit 14 flat or more power.


Struts struts struts.. if your getting wheelhop off of the line, or if your car is lowered and rides crappy, I'd highly recommend some struts... especially at over 100k miles. chances are they are still the original... I dropped .3 sec off my 1/4 with new struts because mine were blown.

my .02

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#3579553 - 03/20/09 02:23 AM Re: what are the cheapest, most effective upgrades? [Re: del_slo]
Fratt3 Offline
Newbie


Registered: 02/22/07
Posts: 54
i'll have to check the time slips. but as for struts i have kyb all around and still get horrible wheel hop, especially at the track. would bad motors mounts cause wheelhop? cuz i know they need to be replaced just by how much the car jerks by just pushing the clutch in. and put it this way the first time i went to the track i hit the 15.5 and there were 2 other em1's that ran slower then that. the last time i went to the track it was just pathetic. 16.1's and 16.2's. its getting slower and slower so i dont think its my driving. and the tires i had when i was there were goodyear eagle gt's. now i have falken neo-gen's on it.

Edited by Fratt3 (03/20/09 02:24 AM)

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#3629922 - 04/07/09 12:41 PM Re: what are the cheapest, most effective upgrades? [Re: Fratt3]
cruzersi99 Offline
Post Master


Registered: 11/13/99
Posts: 2513
14 flat in an em1 with a b16 isn't easy to do. Even with a good driver and a beast of a motor.

Removing weight is always a good idea, as well as gearing (careful here though as changing your gearing too much may result in an un-needed shift).

Even with 2.1 60s you're going to need approximately 200whp with a wide (well wide for a b16) powerband.
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186 whp - Church Automotive (Dynapack)
189 whp - Zero Factory (Bosch)

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#3631031 - 04/07/09 05:13 PM Re: what are the cheapest, most effective upgrades? [Re: cruzersi99]
supercivic00 Offline
Newbie


Registered: 07/27/05
Posts: 60
Loc: glen burine md
just add some gas 2 that bitch n a vafc to rich it up so u dnt blow it up
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#5028291 - 09/12/10 01:44 AM Re: what are the cheapest, most effective upgrades? [Re: supercivic00]
Boostd4 Offline
Newbie


Registered: 08/29/10
Posts: 5
Loc: Bay Area, CA
Kinda reminds me of the old phrase "Cheap, Fast, Reliable...pick two".

14s are hard even in the old GSRs. After spending some time with boosted cars (3 Evos, 1 Audi S4, and 1 FC RX7), forced induction is the best way to go fast. Now, I'm not into car bowling at all...but as a few of the guys above said, remove weight and practice. I can't say that will get you a flat 14, but I do know that my 3200lb street trim Evo 9 with 305whp/318wtq did low 13s the one time I took it to the Infineon Raceway drags, and that was without hard launches.

Now, having driven the EM1 around for the past two weeks I can't imagine this car hitting anywhere near a flat 14 without some power adders or at least a well built NA motor. Back when I had my 96 GSR, I STRUGGLED to get into the 14s...and that was with a mostly gutted interior and the basic bolt ons.


Edited by Boostd4 (09/12/10 01:46 AM)
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1999 EBP Si
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AS Evo 9 SE
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