So, you've determined that your car doesn't have spark!... Is it the igniter or the coil?...
STEP 1: Remove distributor cap (w/wires still intact)... Using either a 19mm socket on the crankshaft bolt or a 19mm wrench on the P/S pulley nut, turn the motor counterclockwise until the ignition rotor is facing the 3:00 position on the distributor shaft (removing the spark plugs makes this feat considerably easier)... Remove the screw holding the rotor on the shaft (notch at 9:00 position)... Remove the rotor and the dust shield...
STEP 2: You'll notice that the ignition coil has two wires on it... One on the positive (+) terminal and one on the negative (-) terminal... Using a test light, hook the alligator clip of the test light on the negative (-) terminal of the car battery... Turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position and put the probe (tip) of the test light on the positive (+) terminal of the ignition coil... The bulb of the test light should light up (showing that you're energizing the positive windings in the coil)... IF the test light in fact lights, move on to step 3... IF not, PM me, you've got other issues...
STEP 3: Remove the alligator clip of the test light from the negative (-) terminal of the car battery and clip it on the positive (+) terminal of the car battery... Put the probe (tip) of the test light on the negative (-) terminal of the ignition coil and have somebody crank the motor over numerous continous times (don't forget to remove the socket/ratchet from the crank pulley first)... The test light should flash, showing you that the igniter is supplying an intermittant ground to the secondary coil windings (it's job) and transfering the saturated charge of the primary windings to the secondary windings for distribution of the charge to the ignition rotor...
IF the test light performs as described on the negative (-) terminal, replace the ignition coil... IF it fails to flash, but positive (+) power was available to the coil (see Step 2),replace the igniter...
The problem with using a DVOM (Digital Volt/Ohm Meter or Digital Multi Meter as you call it) is that the windings will pass a resistance test, but the way the coil is mounted in the distributor housing, they won't detect an area in the coil body [basically a burnt through spot) that is shorting the secondary charge to ground once it's released to the rotor (remember, electricity finds it's EASIEST path to ground)!...
