#2559455 - 04/20/08 11:59 AM
b16 head on gsr block...
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Ultimat777
Jr Member
Registered: 05/06/02
Posts: 617
Loc: Long Island, NY
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Alright...i am in the process of rebuilding my b16 motor. This will be a turbo'd motor that i want to be reliable...so i am trying to do this right.
Since i need a new block i am looking to find a gsr block for something a little stronger and a little bigger than the b16. I am looking into getting the block sleeved and honed. What i want to know is if i put the b16 head on the gsr block...will the b16 Intake Manifold be sufficient?
Also...if i put an ls crank in the block, would that give me some more torque? as far as i know it should fit without a problem.
When it is all done this is what i expect to have Head: 99 B16 head, type-r cams, and crower valve springs and retainers
block: 92-00 gsr block 84mm closed deck sleeves (im thinking aebs but still unsure) ls crank, some 9:1 pistons and some rods (probably eagle)
As for the turbo...i am still unsure but im looking at some garrets rated for about 400-500 hp.
My power goals dont exceed 400hp right now...but i want parts that can handle 400+ to increase reliability.
here is what i have now: Aem cam gears, Inline pro turbo mani, Spearco intercooler, Greddy bov, Tial wastegate , P28, Hondata s200, 780cc precision injectors, Greddy catback 3", Aem fuel rail. i Think thats it.
am i missing anything...any input would be much appreciated.
o and also....when i am looking into buying blocks...what should i look for? I have found a gsr block that was recently sleeved but the guy who had it said that he took it out of his car because it was knocking...walls are still fresh along with the deck surface...he seems to think it was the crank and rods. if i were to purchase the block and replace the crank rods and pistons...is there anything that could be damaged from the previous rod knock? Basically what im saying...is there anything i should be looking for when buying a used block?
Edited by Ultimat777 (04/20/08 12:01 PM)
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#2559604 - 04/20/08 01:02 PM
Re: b16 head on gsr block...
[Re: Ultimat777]
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SamuraiSam
Post Master Sr
Registered: 07/29/02
Posts: 8828
Loc: Bellingham, WA
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Since i need a new block i am looking to find a gsr block for something a little stronger and a little bigger than the b16. I am looking into getting the block sleeved and honed. What i want to know is if i put the b16 head on the gsr block...will the b16 Intake Manifold be sufficient?
Yes, some would say an ITR manifold is worth it, not everyone though
Also...if i put an ls crank in the block, would that give me some more torque? as far as i know it should fit without a problem. It will fit without a problem, it will give you a longer stroke, get the right rods. More low end, don't rev it as high. Ask Mr Knowitall on here. Also you can just use an LS block its cheaper then a GSR block, search LS/VTEC
I have found a gsr block that was recently sleeved but the guy who had it said that he took it out of his car because it was knocking...walls are still fresh along with the deck surface...he seems to think it was the crank and rods. if i were to purchase the block and replace the crank rods and pistons...is there anything that could be damaged from the previous rod knock? Basically what im saying...is there anything i should be looking for when buying a used block? Inspect it for damage. If you do not know what to look for (nothing wrong with this as most of us are not machinists or professional engine builders), take it to a reputable machine shop with B-series experiance and ask to have it inspected. It will cost you a few bucks, but it will be much less then the headache of buying and building a bad block and needing to replace it. Knock is usually rod knock unless he was detonating, in which case the pistons get owned and not a sleeved block (usually)
Second to worst case scenario is that you need to have it bored .5 over and honed, line bored, etc- cheaper then buying a GSR block and having it sleeved, by a long shot
How much money do you want to spend on a turbo? You can get near ball-bearing GT performance out of used diesel truck turbos... Holset or Schwitzer, twin scroll exhaust housing, saves you money, will last forever.
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#2561476 - 04/21/08 07:28 AM
Re: b16 head on gsr block...
[Re: SamuraiSam]
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jcoosi
Sr Member
Registered: 07/29/05
Posts: 1109
Loc: TN
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Pretty much same eng set-up I have
AEBS sleeved gsr block bored 84mm Honda LS crank Eagle rods and cp pistons b16 head revs to 10k no problem has made 511 whp and has more left in it
sounds like your on the right track
Like Sam mentioned turbo setup depends on your budget
As far as buying a block with known knock it would have to be for cheap.
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#2564301 - 04/21/08 06:26 PM
Re: b16 head on gsr block...
[Re: jcoosi]
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Ultimat777
Jr Member
Registered: 05/06/02
Posts: 617
Loc: Long Island, NY
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thanks for the help so far...
Sam...you said to try and get some more low end..dont rev as high...so r u saying not to put the different cams and valvesprings in? It's not like i plan on revvin to 9k all day...maybe just on occasion I am trying to build a reliable motor b/c i dont want to have to do this again. Its already costing me more than i can really afford.
Get the right rods... eagle rods are strong enough right? i was lookin on evans tuning and he suggests manley rods.... My question for this is...if i dont plan on pushing much past 450hp...wont the eagle's be more than plenty?
Defintely gonna have the block checked out first...
Cp pistons... my mechanic doing the work says he doesn't like the cp pistons b/c they are more silicon based...or some shit like that...and you gotta wait for the car to fully warm up b4 driving with these...any input on this opinion? he suggests wiseco or supertech pistons
jcoosi: is your b16 head stock? revvin to 10k is serious
as far as the turbo goes...its still up in air. sc-61, 30r, 35r i still have to do some research on the turbos...im not 100% sure i know what everything means...
thanks again
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#2564573 - 04/21/08 07:13 PM
Re: b16 head on gsr block...
[Re: Ultimat777]
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jcoosi
Sr Member
Registered: 07/29/05
Posts: 1109
Loc: TN
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Its p&p by Portworks in Fla comp s2 turbo cams and comp springs and retainers Rev valves with .5mm over on the exhaust
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#2564663 - 04/21/08 07:35 PM
Re: b16 head on gsr block...
[Re: Ultimat777]
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Mr. Knowitall.
**banned**
Post Master Sr
Registered: 06/25/07
Posts: 3410
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thanks for the help so far... Sam...you said to try and get some more low end..dont rev as high...so r u saying not to put the different cams and valvesprings in? It's not like i plan on revvin to 9k all day...maybe just on occasion I am trying to build a reliable motor b/c i dont want to have to do this again. Its already costing me more than i can really afford. Get the right rods... eagle rods are strong enough right? i was lookin on evans tuning and he suggests manley rods.... My question for this is...if i dont plan on pushing much past 450hp...wont the eagle's be more than plenty? Defintely gonna have the block checked out first... Cp pistons... my mechanic doing the work says he doesn't like the cp pistons b/c they are more silicon based...or some shit like that...and you gotta wait for the car to fully warm up b4 driving with these...any input on this opinion? he suggests wiseco or supertech pistons jcoosi: is your b16 head stock? revvin to 10k is serious as far as the turbo goes...its still up in air. sc-61, 30r, 35r i still have to do some research on the turbos...im not 100% sure i know what everything means... thanks again
If you only want 450whp, a 3076 should do you pretty well. I would pick the cheapest most available motor setup, since the differences are going to be rather small in effect. If you want grab some springs/retainers and rev to 9k.
None of this shit matters. The springs/retainers will give you a slightly better power band, but with a 400whp turbo you wont be waiting too long to find high boost.
Even though I blew a massive hole in my sleeve, I still wouldn't sleeve a motor. The guy who bought my car took it on a 750mile roadtrip and it was detonating the whole way. I can only assume he weakened the sleeve.
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#2564760 - 04/21/08 07:55 PM
Re: b16 head on gsr block...
[Re: Mr. Knowitall.]
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Ultimat777
Jr Member
Registered: 05/06/02
Posts: 617
Loc: Long Island, NY
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you say pick the cheapest most available motor setup... what does that mean? I know the parts im using aren't cheap, and i am not picking the cheapest parts b/c i dont wany any problems i can avoid.
i have crower springs and retainers already...so they are going to be installed since the motor is already apart.
Any why not sleeve a motor? i dont want to blow any holes anywhere.
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#2564821 - 04/21/08 08:06 PM
Re: b16 head on gsr block...
[Re: Ultimat777]
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Mr. Knowitall.
**banned**
Post Master Sr
Registered: 06/25/07
Posts: 3410
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you say pick the cheapest most available motor setup... what does that mean? I know the parts im using aren't cheap, and i am not picking the cheapest parts b/c i dont wany any problems i can avoid.
What parts are you using? What is the difference in cost between various motors you are considering. The results wont be very different.
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This website doesn't do me justice.
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#2565795 - 04/22/08 12:36 AM
Re: b16 head on gsr block...
[Re: Ultimat777]
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SamuraiSam
Post Master Sr
Registered: 07/29/02
Posts: 8828
Loc: Bellingham, WA
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-Cams and valvesprings are fine you can save some money though, by using OE Integra Type R valvesprings, as you only need the intake, and can swap your B16 intake valvesprings onto the exhaust side and then put the ITR intake onto the B16 intake
-Eagle rods are fine at 400hp by a long shot. You just need to make sure you order the correct rods depending on the crankshaft you go with.
-Pistons. There are a few different alloys that piston manufacturers use, and they have different expansion properties due, in part, to their silicone content. I could write up a bit more, but I am lazy, and there is a really good issue of D Sport (one of the only spo-com mags worth buying these days) that has some good info about forged pistons. Go to your news stand, read it, put it back on the shelf if you are cheap, or take it home for 5 bucks your call. Higher silicone content forged pistons are generally better suited for street cars, low/medium power builds, as they can run tighter clearances and are quieter when cold. If you are meticulous about warming up your car and want to spend the extra money on low silicone content pistons, then do it.
You have to use different piston to wall clearance with the different alloys of pistons, but any engine builder will know this, and use the clearances specified by the piston mfg. 3076 would be great, an hx35 would be great and cost less but may not be on boost until slightly later in your rev range. With an 8500-9000rpm rev limit, it won't matter.
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