#35808 - 11/22/03 01:23 PM
Re: Boost Gurus, Here's my Dilema.
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SlamMan
Poster
Registered: 01/28/03
Posts: 338
Loc: Your Moms House, CO
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You guessed right and you won't get anyone here to tell you different.
_________________________
99 Turbo Si Sold
That thing got a Hemi.....Sweet
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#35812 - 11/23/03 01:47 PM
Re: Boost Gurus, Here's my Dilema.
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2000SICoupe
Post Master Sr
Registered: 12/06/02
Posts: 3725
Loc: Florida
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Hondata. Will give you the reliability you want, the power you want, better gas mileage and room for more power if you want.
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#35814 - 11/23/03 02:40 PM
Re: Boost Gurus, Here's my Dilema.
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96accordEX
Post Master Sr
Registered: 09/19/02
Posts: 9886
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Well.. you guys just made my decision a bit easier. Thanks for the added input.
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#35815 - 11/23/03 09:38 PM
Re: Boost Gurus, Here's my Dilema.
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SiRacer
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 10/25/99
Posts: 22862
Loc: Phoenix, AZ
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The way i see it, no matter if you want to run 7psi or 20psi, the Hondata will work better than an FMU + BTM type setup anyday. Not only that, the amount of extra gadgets and shit you need to buy just to properly tune a setup such as that adds up to nearly the cost of a Hondata to begin with. To come even remotely close to tuning the car "well" without a Hondata or similar, you will need a digital programmable MSD, preferably the MSD Digital 7 which will run $500ish on its own. This will allow boost timing retard and ignition maps based on needs. Even the MSD 6BTM is half-assed since it is not programmable. Then you'll need the FMU and a means to fine tune fuel, such as a V-AFC which will set you back another $400 or so not including a quality FMU. Then you'll need a Missing Link or similar, another $50 or so. So your roughly at $1000+ so far, and you havent even begun to consider the tuning and how much effort that will take. The Hondata with large injectors and boost features will avoid ALL of the above components, and more, plus it will run significantly better AND with the right hardware (via your local Hondata dealer) it can be "street tuned" to run PERFECT on the street and give you maximum power at the track. You wont even need dyno time if they have access to a wideband O2 and the Romulator. (Basicly the system automaticly makes fine adjustments little by little as the car is driven in different rev bands and vacuum/boost levels until it is "dead on" where it should be. This makes for the best powerband, less fuel useage and much more responsive performance.)
Sure, you can do the Hondata later, but you've dropped an assload of money on parts you no longer need thus you LOST money by waiting, and you had worse performance, perhaps even damaged the engine via improper tuning in the meantime. Do yourself a favor, save more money now and do it right to start with.
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#35818 - 11/25/03 08:39 PM
Re: Boost Gurus, Here's my Dilema.
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LagWagonSiR2
Jr Poster
Registered: 06/21/03
Posts: 92
Loc: Pittsburgh, PA
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Yeah, what SIRacer said
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#35819 - 11/25/03 08:47 PM
Re: Boost Gurus, Here's my Dilema.
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JacksonRacingSi
Member
Registered: 09/08/02
Posts: 815
Loc: CA
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Quote:
The way i see it, no matter if you want to run 7psi or 20psi, the Hondata will work better than an FMU + BTM type setup anyday. Not only that, the amount of extra gadgets and shit you need to buy just to properly tune a setup such as that adds up to nearly the cost of a Hondata to begin with. To come even remotely close to tuning the car "well" without a Hondata or similar, you will need a digital programmable MSD, preferably the MSD Digital 7 which will run $500ish on its own. This will allow boost timing retard and ignition maps based on needs. Even the MSD 6BTM is half-assed since it is not programmable. Then you'll need the FMU and a means to fine tune fuel, such as a V-AFC which will set you back another $400 or so not including a quality FMU. Then you'll need a Missing Link or similar, another $50 or so. So your roughly at $1000+ so far, and you havent even begun to consider the tuning and how much effort that will take. The Hondata with large injectors and boost features will avoid ALL of the above components, and more, plus it will run significantly better AND with the right hardware (via your local Hondata dealer) it can be "street tuned" to run PERFECT on the street and give you maximum power at the track. You wont even need dyno time if they have access to a wideband O2 and the Romulator. (Basicly the system automaticly makes fine adjustments little by little as the car is driven in different rev bands and vacuum/boost levels until it is "dead on" where it should be. This makes for the best powerband, less fuel useage and much more responsive performance.)
Sure, you can do the Hondata later, but you've dropped an assload of money on parts you no longer need thus you LOST money by waiting, and you had worse performance, perhaps even damaged the engine via improper tuning in the meantime. Do yourself a favor, save more money now and do it right to start with.
Hondata needs to start paying you Jason...even i want to go buy another one, with no car to put it in.
Listen to Jason...he couldn't be more dead on.
_________________________
A.J.
'99 FBP (stolen and stripped)
Comptech built DART block @ 1.9L w/JRSC (recovered, going to sell)
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#9193189 - 11/21/17 01:20 PM
Re: Boost Gurus, Here's my Dilema.
[Re: JacksonRacingSi]
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mono
Newbie
Registered: 11/21/17
Posts: 4
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thanks for this inforamtion
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