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#67032 - 12/16/04 01:31 PM here is the faq again
civicsidude Moderator Offline
Post Master Supreme


Registered: 01/12/00
Posts: 11100
Loc: somewhere in florida
This is the new information post……..
Is n2o dangerous
Well any Strong MOD on a car can be dangerous, but n2o is just as safe as a turbo and a supercharger as long as you use your brain and don’t over due it

what is a Wet kit and What is a dry kit
A n2o wet kit is when the n2o is activated and spraying the system sprays a matching amount of fuel thru the nozzle with the n2o to give a “more accurate shot”
A n2o dry kit is when the n2o is activated and spraying the system uses a vacume to adjust the fuel pressure and use the cars injectors to spray the fuel accordingly

Items recommended to get with a 50-65 dry shot
If you are going to run a 50-65 dry shot it is not required but it is recommended that you get these mods
1. new plugs ngk bkr7e’s
2. fuel pressure regulator
3. new clutch,, yours will die after a little while

Items recommended to get with a 65-80 dry shot
If you are going to run a 65-80 shot dry it is highly recommend you get these mods in addition to the other mods
1. New fuel pump Walbro makes a good one “Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump”
2. Some sort of device to retard the timing automatically “it helps your car run better” MSD BTM or the MSD Dig 6+
3. Motor mount inserts “needed to keep the car from hopping when n2o kicks in”

Items recommended to get with a wet shot
1. new plugs ngk bkr7e’s
2. FPR
3. New clutch
4. Fuel pump
5. Motor mount inserts

Do you need to retard the timing when spraying and how much to retard
This question is under very high debate right now so I will post one answer,,
The common answer is to retard the timing 2 degrees for every 50hp shot of n2o
But most people have not retarded their timing till a 75 shot and then only retarded it 1 degree they feel you should not have to till at least 100hp shot. This is also the way I feel “zex has a dramatic retard change” nos does not ?
Zex™ Kit (#82011)
55hp 65hp 75hp
Nitrous Jet 32 35 38
Fuel Jet 36 34 32
Ignition Retard 0° 2° 4°

Which is better WET or DRY
This depends on what you want to do,, if you are going to run less then 70-75 then dry would be best for you it is perfectly stable and easier to install..
But if you are going higher then 75 you might want to try a wet shot since the wet does manage the fuel better when spraying.

How much to fill up a bottle and how big are they?
Most bottles hold 10 pounds of N˛0. The price varies according to where you live. Dave pays about $3.33 a pound here in Panama City, Florida. That’s because there’s limited supply. You may get a better deal in bigger cities where there is N˛0 Dealer competition. In Orlando Florida I pay anywhere from 2.50 a pound where they freeze the tank for a day,, to 3.50 a pound where they pump the gas in.

What is a window switch and is it needed
A window switch is a device that when the power to the n2o is activated and the car is a WOT it will only let the n2o actually fire in the range that you specified with the switch “you change this with pills that set the rpm range” Example: you insert a 5000pill and a 7500pill you floor the car when you reach 5000 rpm the n2o will spray till you hit 7500rpm then the n2o will turn off…..
Is the window switch needed… it depends on how paranoid you are most people do not think it is worth the hassle to install the switch,, but if you are running a chipped ecu I actually would recommend it due to the higher rev limit


How big a shot can my car take
Well that depends on what you are going to do if you are going a dry shot do not go higher then 75 due to the restricted fuel flow you will experiencing,, If you are going wet shot then max I would say is 100 shot with all the upgraded mod items.. Everyones cars are different so this is just a hard question to answer it is best to start with a small shot and keep checking the engine to see if you have any damage and slowly upgrade..

Will I be able to beat this and this and this with this shot
Well that all depends on you, you cant rely on your car to be the sole thing to beat another car everything is up to the driver,,,, You can have a very fast car and still lose to a slow car with a good driver

Can you put n2o in ……
You can install n2o in ANY car you want all you need to do is figure out what type of kit you want and convert it to fit your car

Do I need a purge kit and will it fit on my kit?
NO a purge kit is not needed,, a purge kit just removes the dead air in the line it saves you about .1 of a sec off your time, and the amount of n2o that gets sprayed out with the air could be used for another pass down the track, “you blow about $1.50-2.50 each time you purge”,,,
Yes,, any purge kit you get can bee hooked up to any n2o kit you have

Do I need a n2o gauge and what other guages do you recommend
Yes, it is a great thing to get a n2o gauge the reason for this is that if you have the gauge on the dash it will help tell you if you have enough pressure to race and if you have any n2o in your tank,, it sucks pulling up to race and finding out your tank is empty,, I also recommend a fuel pressure gauge and a air/fuel gauge,, but I can not in good conscience recommend the autometer air/fuel gauge get a good one like greddy or hks the autometer one when on a dyno with a air/fuel test being done the autometer was wrong which could cause damage..

Where would you plug the n2o gauge into?
To get the best reading of the pressure on your line I and rzrshrp plugged our gauges into the line closest to the solenoids to get the most accurate reading

Where do you mount your equipment?
Well the purple box most people mount it right behind the intake manifold it is a very tight squeeze but it will fit and looks nice there,, this is the same place I mounted my NOS setup. The tank the best place to mount is in the trunk behind the driver side “it is best here because” on the driver side of the car you have the brake lines run so you can put your n2o line run in the brake line runner so the n2o line will not get crushed which stinks from experience..

Where to put the nozzle
The best place to mount the nozzle is 1-6 inches from the throttle body the dry kit I recommend 6 inches If you are using a dry shot and you have a AEM you can use the oil return line and tap the nozzle into that or drill a hole in the bottom and aim towards the throttle body,, if you are using a wet shot I recommend about 2-3 inches and try to point it to the runners to make sure the fuel make it in with the n2o

When to spray
When can or when should you spray ,, well 2 gears you should not spray in is 1st and 5th the reason being is that in first you will just sit and spin but with practice you might be able to learn how to do it,, with 5th that is the weakest gear on the clutch and tranny due to it is a highway gear and not made to handle the sudden kick of power..
And try not to spray until 4500-5000 rpm to make sure the engine is nice an spinning and try to stop by 7500-7800 so you wont bounce and cause some damage

What is the best bottle pressure to run and how to get that much pressure
When you are going to spray you want your bottle at the highest pressure you can get but not to dangerous 1300 is extremely high and dangerous your burst disk might blow,, 1000-1200 is the best pressure to get the most out of your kit below that you will feel it but not as hard.,,with bottle pressure of 600 you really wont feel that much at all
To achieve this you should get a bottle blanket and or a bottle heater,,,, and YES other companys blankets and heaters will work for other bottles

What kind of times will I get with n2o
Well it depends on you but here is a easy way to figure it out,, with a 50 shot take off .5-.75 off your average time with a 100 shot take off 1-1.5 off your average time this has been tested with timeslips from other gas heads

Do I need internal mods in my engine
You should only need internal mods with a shot of about 100 or higher if higher then 100 then I recommend piston, rods, vaulves, springs, retainers, cams, cam gears

Can I run cams with n2o
I have checked with 90% of the manufactures that make cams and see if they recommend or think their cams work with n2o, and so far the only companys that say theirs will work are
Crower makes a set that they say works with n2o, JUN stage 1 says it can handle n2o and ZEX makes a set that works well with n2o,, most other companys say they have not tested with n2o and do not recommend it and say it sould void warrenty

My car has high miles can I still run n2o
Yes you can still run n2o but you are putting extreme strain on the engine at on time so it could damage it I recommend a wet shot for this to make sure you have enough fuel and retard the timing alittle more and also do not spray above 50 to keep it safe

What is the jetting needed
NOS Jetting for Single Fogger wet/dry?
Extra HP
Jetting N20 / Fuel
Recommended Retard
Jetting for single fogger wet:
50
.037/.022
0 degrees retard
60
.039/.024
1 degrees retard (NOS recomends no retard)
70
.041/.026
1-2 degrees retard
80
.043/.028
2-3 degrees retard

Jetting for single fogger dry:
40
.034/.044
no retard
50
.032/.042
1 degrees retard (NOS recommends no retard)
60
.034/.042
1-2 degrees retard (your choice NOS recommends 1 if done)
70
.041/.036
2-3 degrees retard
80
.044/.034**
2-3 degrees


Zex™ Kit (#82011)
55hp 65hp 75hp
Nitrous Jet 32 35 38
Fuel Jet 36 34 32
Ignition Retard 0° 2° 4°


Can an Auto Tranny handle a 55 shot?
Auto trannies take better advantage of N2O than manuals since it shifts faster and you don't have to lift between gears. An auto tranny should easily handle 55HP of extra power; if anything, the torque converter isn't in question, rather the clutches/bands in the first two forward gears. Nevertheless, you should have NO problems with the 55HP dry setup

How much Horse Power gains will I see with N˛0?
The shot is equivalent to the Horse Power gain. 55shot=55hp (although it's not exact, that's the main idea). So if you went with a 75 shot of N20 than you would expect a 75 HP increase

Where do I mount my switch?
Well, if it's a standard Zex kit you have an endless amount of locations. I've seen people mount all their switches by the ebrake. I also see people cut a piece of ABS Plastic and mount them in that pocket down by the drink holders (Si version). You also could mount in that change draw like you said. In that location you can not close the drawer unless the switch is completely off (Safer). There really is no end to the locations. I on the other hand mounted mine PROUDLY right next to the Sunroof button and mirror adjustment button (sorry no pics). As far as keeping your hands on the wheel, just learn to launch with it armed in first gear and everything should be fine.

What should I run my Fuel psi at for a Zex 65-75 shot?
For a 75 shot I would run the PSI at 44 with line off. That would put your idal psi at about 41 idal psi is measured with line on of course). I actually ran my psi at 51 with line off. But was running real rich. I dyno'ed it at 44 psi with line off and the air/fuel was right on. Remember it's better to run rich then lean. And with a dry system you need the psi up higher than normal
Average prices for the kits
Okay here are some AVERAGE prices for the kits please don’t quote me
NEW used 3-6 months 6+months
ZEX
$500.00 $400.00 $300.00
NOS DRY”5122”
$500 $350.00 $300.00
NOS WET
$600 $400.00 $350.00
NX
$550 $350.00 $300.00
Venom
$1100 $700.00 $500.00
Purge Kit
$160 $75.00 $40.00
Bottle heater
$100 $75.00 $50.00
Bottle opener
$190 $75 $65.00
n2o bottle 10lb
$150 $100 $100
n2o Jets
between $3-6 each

Summit Pricing:
#MSD-8956 RPM Window Activation Switch = $76.95
#MSD-8744 RPM Modules 4000-4800 = $20.69
#MSD-8748 RPM Modules 8000-8800 = $20.69
#MSD-8961 MSD High Current Relay DPST = $25.95
TOTAL = $148.28


And props to
Dave “rzrshrpsi”
And
Me Steve “civicsidude”
And all the NOS techs I put in many calls to them getting info about kits and setups

and to real type r
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I compiled this list of frequently asked questions. I used one or two of someone else’s replies cause I didn’t feel like typing it all out again. I cut and pasted a lot of the answers, that’s why some don’t seem to fit perfectly with the question but you get the idea.
What kit is better, Zex or NOS, and what’s the difference?
Zex "standard kit"--- everything is self contained,, all the solenoids and pressure regulators are inside the purple box,, uses a electrical signal from "I believe" the CPU to activate the NOS very easy to install...and adjustable from 55-75 shot with out anything extra have seen hit 100 "with NOS jets"
has not been around that long as a company

NOS "MODEL 5122"-- you must put together before installing in to car, kit comes unassembled takes a little longer to install, comes with the pressure regulator and 2 solenoids not self contained, uses a pressure switch style WOT sensor to activate the NOS, adjustable from 50-60 shot with out anything extra. have seen hit 100. been around as a company for a very long time

Zex is a dry system only. NOS comes in different variations. Zex is limited but very safe. NOS is more tunable. Zex is great for a novice user but again it only comes in dry which can only "safely" go up to 75 shot. I know that if you use the NOS jets in a Zex kit you can tune it up to 100+ shot but who in their right mind is going to use a 100+ 'Dry' system. NOS is also nice cause you can jet as low as 40 shot. Zex only has 3 jettings: 55, 65, and 75.

How much to fill up a bottle and how big are they?
Most bottles hold 10 pounds of N˛0. The price varies according to where you live. I pay about $3.33 a pound here in Panama City, Florida. That’s because there’s limited supply. You may get a better deal in bigger cities where there is N˛0 Dealer competition.

I’m new to N˛0, what do I need to run N˛0?,
What does an MSD Window switch do and how does it work?, and
What spark plug do I get?
A stock Si motor (or GS-R) can handle a 50 or 55 shot N20 system.. If you are serious about this than you will want to decide on a few things:

1. Which kit do you want to use? I use the Zex Kit but there are many to choose form that all have there own selling points. The Zex is the easiest and I feel the safest as well as the most affordable.
2. Where do you want to start? I would strongly suggest to start out with a low shot like 55 (50 if you go with NOS).
3. What is your ultimate goal. What would you like to see your go do and how high a shot are you looking to go?

Even with a 50 or 55 shot you need to get colder plugs. ANY colder will do the trick. I suggest the NGK BKR7E plugs. Also, it would be a good idea to get a header. You want to move the exhaust out of there as quickly as possible. Next I would suggest a safety switch. I would suggest an MSD Window Activation switch. This switch allows 12V power to your N20 set up only during a certain RPM range (or window). You don't want to shoot at too low an RPM (anything under 4000 is too low) or at too high an RPM (anything over 8000 is too high. Reason is because if you hit your fuel cut off while spraying you will blow your motor.) The Window switch allows you to stay with in this RPM window. Remember also not to spray in 5th gear. The 5th gear in Honda's is the weakest gear and will fail under N20 use.


Why the NGK BKR7E’s and not the 11’s?
You shouldn't buy the 11's. You should just buy NGK BKR7E, because the gap is too large. u could bend the electrode but the spark wouldn’t be going to a flat electrode, u want the BRK7E because the gap is smaller than the "-11"
REASONS: when the NOS is shot into the intake at 1000 PSI it will tend to blow out the spark that is on the spark plug. with a smaller gap the spark is less susceptible to the fast moving fuel and nos. with the smaller gap the plug will burn hotter than with the stockers, that is y u will want to get a colder plug, and gap it at 35 (since BKR7E plugs come pre-gapped at 38 than that will work just fine)
plain said: smaller the gap less chance the spark will be blown out causing no combustion...and fuckups!!!


How much for the MSD Window Switch?
Summit Pricing:
#MSD-8956 RPM Window Activation Switch = $76.95
#MSD-8744 RPM Modules 4000-4800 = $20.69
#MSD-8748 RPM Modules 8000-8800 = $20.69
#MSD-8961 MSD High Current Relay DPST = $25.95

TOTAL = $148.28

NOS Jetting for Single Fogger wet/dry?
Extra HP
Jetting N20 / Fuel
Recommended Retard
Jetting for single fogger wet:
50
.037/.022
0 degrees retard
60
.039/.024
1 degrees retard (NOS recomends no retard)
70
.041/.026
1-2 degrees retard

80
.043/.028
2-3 degrees retard

Jetting for single fogger dry:
40
.034/.044
no retard

50
.037/.042
1 degrees retard (NOS recommends no retard)

60
.038/.042
1-2 degrees retard

70
.041/.036
2-3 degrees retard

80
.044/.034**
2-3 degrees

Can an Auto Tranny handle a 55 shot?
Auto trannies take better advantage of N2O than manuals since it shifts faster and you don't have to lift between gears. An auto tranny should easily handle 55HP of extra power; if anything, the torque converter isn't in question, rather the clutches/bands in the first two forward gears. Nevertheless, you should have NO problems with the 55HP dry setup

How much Horse Power gains will I see with N˛0?
The shot is equivalent to the Horse Power gain. 55shot=55hp (although it's not exact, that's the main idea). So if you went with a 75 shot of N20 than you would expect a 75 HP increase
Where do I mount my switch?
Well, if it's a standard Zex kit you have an endless amount of locations. I've seen people mount all their switches by the ebrake. I also see people cut a piece of ABS Plastic and mount them in that pocket down by the drink holders (Si version). You also could mount in that change draw like you said. In that location you can not close the drawer unless the switch is completely off (Safer). There really is no end to the locations. I on the other hand mounted mine PROUDLY right next to the Sunroof button and mirror adjustment button (sorry no pics). As far as keeping your hands on the wheel, just learn to launch with it armed in first gear and everything should be fine.

What should I run my Fuel psi at for a Zex 65-75 shot?
For a 75 shot I would run the PSI at 44 with line off. That would put your idal psi at about 41 idal psi is measured with line on of course). I actually ran my psi at 51 with line off. But was running real rich. I dyno'ed it at 44 psi with line off and the air/fuel was right on. Remember it's better to run rich then lean. And with a dry system you need the psi up higher than normal.

Posted By RaYnMeLa written by the Former Owner of NX:
Nitrous-oxide (N2O) is two parts nitrous and one part oxygen. It's an expansion gas (like freon), and as such, reacts to outside temperatures. We inject the nitrous-oxide and fuel before the throttle body by means of a "nozzle" (U.S. Patent# 5699776). The nitrous "shoots" through the fuel (gas or alcohol) at a ninety degree angle, and the mixture is atomized perfectly. The nitrous should be between 900psi & 1050psi and the fuel psi is stock application off the fuel rail at the "schrader valve". The atomized mixture is then "pulled" into the manifold by the engine's vacuum and sent to the cylinders. RESULT: 100% fuel burn in the cylinder with both valves closed. This results in a carbonless combustion chamber, almost pure white sparkplugs and a light powder-gray exhaust port and header. Your car will sound like the world's biggest turbo-charged engine. First couple of times the hair on your arms will stand straight out.
Horsepower is determined by the numbered jets and corresponding jetting pattern that comes with our nitrous systems. These jets have been tested with a digital flowbench for the correct nitrous/fuel mixture for your particular application, so there's no guessing which jets goes where and causes what hp. Now comes the controversial part...WE DO NOT REQUIRE "RETARDED TIMING" PERIOD!! "Retarded timing" overheats engines, causes extreme exhaust temps, causes your engine to "lay down" in high gear, gives a false sense of power because of overly increased cylinder pressure, burns the oil off the cylinder walls causing the rings to have a "hot foot", knocks the moly off the rings, causes crushed ring lands, burned pistons and burned sparkplugs, burned exhaust valves, etc. Result: You just sacrificed your engine because the "other" brand didn't make a nozzle that atomizes, so they had to make power some way...enter the "retarded timing" solution.
Then they introduced the "dry" system, their thinking was, if we don't atomize the fuel (you can not burn "raw fuel" in the cylinder...it catches fire and goes out the exhaust, causing popping, backfiring, flames out of the headers and other assorted nasty things), then let's just eliminate the fuel through the nozzle and add it later (plus they can sell you another fuel pump that you don't need). Results of a "dry" system are intake manifold back-fires, blown airboxes, mufflers the size of garbage cans, false horsepower claims, & pre-loads and locks-up the fuel-injectors. I'm not trying to scare you, but without knowledge, you can not make an intelligent decision. So now you're asking yourself if the "other" brands make such an inferior product, why are they selling so many. The answer is "advertising & marketing", i.e. "McDonald's"...probably not your first choice for a *good* hamburger, but their name, logo, and advertising are everywhere. Our NX nitrous systems come with a "money back guarantee", if you're not satisfied with the performance and you followed OUR instructions. The "other" brands will not match this guarantee, nor will you get the same answer twice if you call them. This is where "tech" comes in, and our tech comes direct from me, John Stewart, a.k.a. "Mr. Nitrous"...over 21 yrs. in the nitrous industry. I hold the patents on all NX nozzles and all the "Gemini-Twin" plates...the "retired" (as of 4/98) Founder, President, CEO and Engineer of Nitrous Express - Next Generation Technology. I'm now the Consulting Engineer for NX, own Nitrous Warehouse (NX's largest distributor for the last 3 yrs.) and "Mr. Nitrous" Racing.

What's the differance between the MSD BTM and the MSD Dig 6+?
The BTM retards timing as it measures boost. Which is great for a turbo car that builds boost but a N2O car doesn't build boost it gives all at one time. That's why the Digital 6+ is better for N2O cars cause it retards timing as soon as you arm your Nitrous kit.

The MSD Dig 6+ doesn't do anything with controling your spraying that is done with an MSD Window Switch which is controled with pills to turn it on and off at certain rpm's (depending on which pills you put in, for instance 400 rpm pill to turn on and 8000 rpm pill to turn off)
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#1741351 - 08/11/07 01:28 AM Re: here is the faq again [Re: civicsidude]
Rome Offline
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Registered: 09/29/05
Posts: 7
Loc: WASHINGTON, USA
For the spark plugs BKR7E what is the part number
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#5826852 - 09/27/11 05:52 PM Re: here is the faq again [Re: ]
ScottStaypuff Offline
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Registered: 03/05/00
Posts: 17673
Loc: Ohio
 Originally Posted By: adelaide lee
wow.... it is so long.....


That's what she said.

Hey mods, I think we need some SPAM clean up around here...








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#8558118 - 02/17/16 08:06 PM Re: here is the faq again [Re: ScottStaypuff]
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#9120050 - 08/31/17 12:29 AM Re: here is the faq again [Re: ]
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#9120051 - 08/31/17 12:29 AM Re: here is the faq again [Re: DurhamCarpet]
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#9120052 - 08/31/17 12:30 AM Re: here is the faq again [Re: DurhamCarpet]
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