So you want to buy a blown motor to replace your blown motor?

So you want to buy a blown motor to replace your blown motor?

ok just because i'm feeling generous and you're totally clueless, here's a bit of advice. pull the motor yourself, take the block to someone who knows how to rebuild engines and have them replace the fucked up piston. get motor back, slap it back in, and voila. i'd be surprised if that costs you more than a grand, plus who knows... you might actually learn something about cars. replacing a motor isn't hard, so sack up.

Kinda like...."This aids I got sucks...I wish I had syphilis. Wanna trade?"

Get it fixed properly instead of trying to bandaid it. While slight, there's always the slight chance that the pistons/rods/etc aren't the same weight from motor to motor and you'd end up with a half-assed mismatched boat anchor that never ran right again.

So wtf is the dealerships reason for not warrentying the issue?

If you do go this route at least you'll have another block to play with/beef up when time allows. I don't think its a bad idea but if your going through the hassle of arranging shipping I'd offer less.

Not everyone has the time, tools and space to pull a motor.

Why not have your current motor rebuilt? Get someone with a Mazda Motorsports membership (or get one yourself) and get the parts at a discount, and have a shop rebuild the engine thats in the car.

or the know how

well as long as you're realistic about it...

what about buying a bare block from mazda and swap the guts, replacing the rod and piston? that seems cheaper

Why rebuild it when there's a hole in the block? I'm basically replacing the part that is messed up.

I've never heard of the Mazda Motorsports Membership - looks like it's for racing teams and requires approval from Mazda.

If you are building your car.

If your race car is currently under construction, the race results requirement will be temporarily waived if you can provide a copy of your racing club membership card (SCCA, NASA, etc.). You will be required to provide a completion date for the first race you plan to compete in. You will need to provide race results from your first event within 30 days after the competition.

Since you already took it to the dealer and have a record of a voided warranty, wouldn't it show up on carfax already? So that will make is harder to sell right? Even if it is fixed.... I say just sell it as is and move on.

Good luck

Who cares? If he gets it up to "running" condition, just trade the damn thing in and move on

sell the car to duder for a nickel and have him and Danny throw something nutty under the hood.

sorry this is a dick move
I may be in the minority here but if you fuck up a car and just try to bandaid it to get rid of it that's some pussy stuff

Of course if you are going to fully disclose "rebuilt" motor then it's all good

How so? If he gets it back to the way it was before it cracked the piston using OEM parts and everything checks out, how is that any different from any other used car out there?

Is Impulsive a dick for trading a car in that didn't have a stock short block? Do you let dealerships know that, at one time or another, your car was NOT completely stock before handing over the keys? Or that you've taken it to the track a few times and blew the clutch, for instance?

Give me a break...I mean private party is one thing, but if a dealership gives you black book for what they will more than likely send through auction anyway, oh well.

No carfax wont show that. Carfax doesnt show half the shit wrong with cars.

Umm, Carfax shows trips to the dealership. Everytime I had my 6 in the shop, even for oil changes, it showed up on Carfax.

Ive never done anything you describe above, and yes it's a bitch move to fuck up a car and throw some duct tape and a band-aid on it and try to pass it off as if nothing was ever wrong.

you fuck up, you deal with it, don't make your problems someone elses headache.



ps blowing a clutch and sending a rod through the block are 2 completely different things

ps blowing a clutch and sending a rod through the block are 2 completely different things

So, WTF do you suggest he do then? Fix it correctly and then when it's time to trade say "Hey, I know I'm trading this car in, but since the motor isn't completely stock and since you offered me $14K....I'll only accept 7."

I mean, what's your angle?

How is fixing it back to OEM standards a "bitch move?" Maybe I confuse the fact that if my shit breaks I want it fixed right, if not better than before, While others are happy with getting it done quick & dirty. Either way, duct tape and band-aid is still far from what I had in mind, or even suggested lol Stop Leak + Hondabond


True, but a blown clutch signifies abuse from driving like a jackass. But when a motor is KNOWN to have weak rods and a good amount of others have gotten a replacement shortblock after experiencing this SAME problem (stock, no less) that's a build quality issue. God only knows what kinda A/F's and knock counts that motor has seen during it's short life, but it's not like people haven't seen the same shitty results out of a bone stock drivetrain.

The more important issue here though is that you are driving around in a stock EVO lol shoulda just bought a Lancer

And carfax doesnt show when my celica was stolen, in 2 wrecks, had its engine replaced due to hydrolock and my spec-vs wreck even though they were all repaired at dealerships.

Ill say it again for the cheap seats
You attempting a 1/2 assed fix on a car you fucked up and attempting to pass it off as "nothing is wrong with it" is a move by a pussy.

You throw out "weak rods" like any minute now every ms6 that has ever been sold will puke and die.

I'm less stuck on the fact that this guy is trying to deal with this problem and more concerned with your odd way of thinking, in general. Would him being stock and Mazda still not honoring his warranty make this situation any different in your eyes, our holiness?

If everyone followed that kinda mind set, at this point, half of SvA would have dozens of cars in their front lawns being held up by blocks. I mean, give me a fuckin break here

And the only reason I keep bringing up your car is because...well...I don't have one and wish I did *takes ball and goes home*

I still dont see how this is shady. I mean he is rebuilding the engine. Its the same exact thing the dealership would have done.

he's reusing pistons and rods from 2 bum motors

and you think if a dealership rebuilt motor #2 they would replace everything? Nope they would only replace what is broken.

just because a dealership sucks doesn't mean he shouldn't do everything in his power to make it right

i love ps
unless those two valve reliefs are supposed to be there there was piston to valve contact, i wonder what if anything would cause that damage on one piston and not the others...in which case you may have a bigger problem with that shortblock

I'm glad you brought this up, Mohandas Gandi. If anyone wants to throw some more info out on why pistons crack - I'm all eyes.

Does your MS6 motor have dual path intake runners like the Spec-v?

I meant secondary time ones. I have heard of a few people cracking a piston due to one of the screws getting in there. Sounds like the car had an overheating problem.

If you want to do it right
Buy the used block have all the cyl walls checked and honed. Measure the bores and buy new pistons, rods and bearings.

Also check the head, no telling what if any metal got up there.

Check the crank
Change the thrust washers
wouldn't be a bad idea to rebuild the oil pump

Then drive it for 1k miles to make sure it's not a smoking bastard


Now you have a brand new motor, you may love the car

You just stated what I've been trying to drill into your head all fucking day

But yeah, if the second motor is FUBAR he obviously will not be going with that option.

I'm surprised that only a BOV and test pipe would cause you to throw a rod at 11K. Did you turn up the boost at all, or did you just drive it hard most of the time?

So what's the plan, another S2000?

You want my advice? I was faced with a similar situation with my Neon. I chose to not bandaid the cylinder by slapping in a different piston. I bought another short block.

So... A cheapass Neon owner decided not to do it, should the owner of a 30k car?

and lol@ the valve reliefs being caused by valves hitting the piston. no fucking engine in the world is going to cause perfect and identical reliefs into a piston if there is contact...and going that deep.