For 02+ Civic Si (EP3): ~ Very special thanks to Mike (EXavier) for these!!! Progress - 280F/500R Eibach Pro-Kit- 15-20% stiffer then stock Eibach Sportlines - 20-25% stiffer then stock Sprint - 20-25% more then stock H&R Sport - 25-30% more then stock Tein SS - 336F/448R Tein Flex - 448F/559R Tein S. Tech - 157F/291R We are really in need of finding out what stock rates are for an EP Hatch!!!
If you've got any to add or have springs for me to test let me know and I'll put them on the compression tested and do a full plot of the springs. I'll need one front and one rear spring to test them.
I know that the rear springs on the Ground Control kit are 450, I'm not sure about the front though.
Also I should warn people, if you get the Ground Control Coil-overs for the EP3 specify that you want 6" rear springs, not the 5" crap that they give you off the shelf, they are too short and you don't really have the ability to adjust upwards very much, which leads to a very rough ride around our country's shitty streets.
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02 Civic TypeR--DC5R Swap
Going to 300+HP of Pure NA Bliss
Registered: 01/12/00
Posts: 11497
Loc: Cajun Country
Quote: Can anyone find out the spring rates for the comptech sport springs for the 99-00 civic Si, they lower 1.5
I just spoke with comptech about their spring rates.
265F/140R
The guy told me that they used to have their springs made my eibach but found that there was too much variation in spring rates from set to set. Eibach told them just to use them but comptech wasn't satisfied. Comptech individually tests each and every spring to ensure a matched set. Each spring comes with its own actual spring rate stamped onto the spring. I know alot of you guys will say that the above listed spring rates are too soft but for a guy like me who just drives hard on the street, I want the best comprimise. I've had the prokits for a few years and they just sag too much and they seem a little bouncy. The tech at Comptech said they tested tons of different spring rates and the found that 265F/145R to be the best combination. A little extra info is that the guy said he'd take a 4-2-1 header all day before a 4-1. He said even on a racetrack he'd prefer the 4-2-1 over the 4-1 race header. He said that unless you are "bouncing off the rev limiter" he feels the 4-2-1 is a better header. Sorry for the long post.
Registered: 08/09/01
Posts: 432
Loc: calgary, alberta canada
hey slight correction on the the skunk 2 coilovers. the rate for the coils are actually 8kg/mm and 6kg/mm. If my conversion is right the rate should actually be 446lb/in and 335lb/in
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I have one slow, slow civic...
Quote: hey slight correction on the the skunk 2 coilovers. the rate for the coils are actually 8kg/mm and 6kg/mm. If my conversion is right the rate should actually be 446lb/in and 335lb/in
Show the data or die newb . I'm more sure of the posted numbers then your crap so unless they recently changed your numbers are wrong .
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Kevin - Owner and Driver of Cars -
Okay, all of this leaves me with silly amounts of questions... I've been reading a lot and have come up with a few good ones that I think are relevant food for thought for anyone trying to adjust their car's setup from what the factory decided was best... First of all, if the front springs on my '99 Si are sitting at a rate of 201 lbs/inch from the factory then going to some of the springs I've seen on here just seems insane. For instance the Tein HT. Why would someone want a spring with that much resistance? Even if you are looking at like a 2+ inch drop with those springs (I'm guessing here...) you are still looking at a very high load rating for those springs. There are probably full size trucks out there with weaker springs! Aside from the question of "What is the perfect spring rate for me?" I have to ask how one goes about choosing a proper shock for their springs? Someone on here asked about listing shock rates, and I have gathered that some shocks have different compression/return rates. Is this where adjustable gas shocks, like the KYB AGX come in? Does adjusting them affect both compression and return rates or just the return rate?(or just the compression rate?) And what is their rated adjustable range? Ahhh! I am actually quite happy with my car's overall handling characteristics and think it is well balanced from the factory. I think that it maybe just needs slightly tweaked for less body roll. Would adjustable shocks alone suit this purpose? I note their seems to be some consensus that the rear springs are too soft. Lowering my car is absolutely not a real option. I live in an area where my stock suspension is already borderline of being too low. I would like to make the car too feel just a bit tighter at the same ride height, with less overall body roll. I am thinking adjustable shocks will fit these requirements, but also wonder if it is possible to make the rear a bit stiffer by taking factory front springs and placing them on the rear? Anyone ever tried this? Thanks in advance for your help...
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Famous Last Words:
Take it to the shop? You've gotta be joking. I can do the whole job myself in a couple hours...
hey there, i got skunk 2 coilovers on my si and i was wondering how is the ride with the yellows? Is it still bumpy or is it soild meaning your car don't bounce a bunch of times after a bump in the road. thanks
What are the stock spring rates on a 95 EG civic sedan? And does anyone know about Tanabe Siper Down Precedeo? I bought them cheap and wanna know more about them before installing them.
Registered: 06/25/05
Posts: 10
Loc: North Carolina
Can anyone post the rates for the stock 02 Si? Runnig Enkei 17" J10's and looking for a set of springs to drop about 1.5in F & R and keep the same ride, maybe a hair stiffer. Thanks.
Is the ride quality of the Eibach ProKit similar to the H&R OE set for a 96-00 Civic on Koni Special shocks? Also, where does the Eibach kit settle out at? I see that the H&R's don't settle much more after install. I am thinking of putting 16's on my car but not get that slammed look. Just want to make everything look better but still be practical.
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My car is protected by a pitbull with AIDS. "I live my life one credit card bill to another. For those 31 days or less I'm free."
Registered: 02/01/06
Posts: 38
Loc: Philadlephia, PA
how come for a 00 civics the height rate is higher on the front than it is on the back, and for 02 civic's its the opposite. I'm wanna get Tein SS with EDFC but i want my car to be lower on the front. Will that effect my handeling? or are the Tein just set with those rates for 00 civic's and cannot be changed.
thanks in advance
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2000 Vogue Silver Metalic Civic SiR - NH-583M
DC Sport 4-2-1 stainless steel headers, Cat-back, Exaust. Thermal R&D Cat
Act Prolite Flywheel, Organic Clutch, pressure plate
AEM V2 CAI
B&M short shifter, Razo Shifter knob & Pedals
5% tint all around
CV Joint, Ball joints replacement
5th freakin paint job
ok this may be a dumb question: im a running the neuspeed race springs, and they don't feel nearly as firm as my old coilovers... around 400 front and 380 in the rear. Do the spring length affect this? the race sorings are extremely short because the dump the car. Any info on this im planning to upgrader to GC's with rates of 400 front and 450 rear... i don't want these to be softer than my current setup....
Neuspeed Race is a progressive spring, meaning it gets progressively firmer where as the springs in both your old coilovers and GC are Linear springs, so they are the rate throughout the length.
400/450 will be much stiffer then the Neuspeed Race as GC is linear and Nuespeed Race is progressive.
Quote: how come for a 00 civics the height rate is higher on the front than it is on the back, and for 02 civic's its the opposite. I
Are you referring to the spring rate? It's because of the different suspension design after 2000. In the newer MacPherson strut designs, the spring is directly translated to the motion of the wheel. On the older double wishbone design, the spring is acting on the lower control arm about 2/3 of the way out. This means that the spring's motion ratio in relation to the wheel is actually 2/3 of it's actual rate.
For example, on a MacPherson design, a 300in/lb spring is putting down 300in/lb of pressure to the contact patch. While on a double wishbone, a 300in/lb spring is actually putting less, approx. 200in/lb to the contact patch in this case.
That's why the newer cars have a numerically lower spring rate, but comparable wheel rates.
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Nothing in the world is accomplished without passion.
Quote: Okay, all of this leaves me with silly amounts of questions... I've been reading a lot and have come up with a few good ones that I think are relevant food for thought for anyone trying to adjust their car's setup from what the factory decided was best... First of all, if the front springs on my '99 Si are sitting at a rate of 201 lbs/inch from the factory then going to some of the springs I've seen on here just seems insane. For instance the Tein HT. Why would someone want a spring with that much resistance? Even if you are looking at like a 2+ inch drop with those springs (I'm guessing here...) you are still looking at a very high load rating for those springs. There are probably full size trucks out there with weaker springs! Aside from the question of "What is the perfect spring rate for me?" I have to ask how one goes about choosing a proper shock for their springs? Someone on here asked about listing shock rates, and I have gathered that some shocks have different compression/return rates. Is this where adjustable gas shocks, like the KYB AGX come in? Does adjusting them affect both compression and return rates or just the return rate?(or just the compression rate?) And what is their rated adjustable range? Ahhh! I am actually quite happy with my car's overall handling characteristics and think it is well balanced from the factory. I think that it maybe just needs slightly tweaked for less body roll. Would adjustable shocks alone suit this purpose? I note their seems to be some consensus that the rear springs are too soft. Lowering my car is absolutely not a real option. I live in an area where my stock suspension is already borderline of being too low. I would like to make the car too feel just a bit tighter at the same ride height, with less overall body roll. I am thinking adjustable shocks will fit these requirements, but also wonder if it is possible to make the rear a bit stiffer by taking factory front springs and placing them on the rear? Anyone ever tried this? Thanks in advance for your help...
Actually, adjustable, or higher performance shocks will not decrease body roll. It will react quicker to weight transfer giving the impresson of less body roll, but is really decreasing the response time between input and weight transfer.
Also, on most single-adjustable shocks, the adjustment affects more dramatically on the rebound side and slightly on the compresson side.
I think the best real world solution for you is finding a set of OEM ITR springs and a set of non-adjustable sport shocks. Or adjustables if you can stretch the budget a bit. I have been using this setup with Illuminas and been very happy with the compromise. And if you still feel the need to control body roll, a set of swaybars will be your next step.
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Nothing in the world is accomplished without passion.
Registered: 12/01/03
Posts: 4358
Loc: Lake Charles, LA
what are the spring rates for apex springs (not apexi) ??? www.apexsuspension.com. They were on my del sol when i bought it. does anyone else have these springs? Are they any good?
_________________________ WANG CHUNG
nigga why you trying to make this about you this is my goodbye thread get out of here with your airwalks and fanny pack