2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
06/27/06 11:37 PM
**CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Car Detailing 101

**Disclaimer**
----- Myself, or no one affiliated with this forum, is responsible for harm you may cause to the exterior and/or interior of your car while trying methods suggested in the following thread.-----

The write-up has been moved to my website. Find it at http://www.detailing101.blogspot.com
Thanks, have a great day!

Thats all for now kids. Nate, if you would like to add anything to this, feel free to make changes. Anyone else, PLEASE try and keep this thread to questions about ideas discussed in this thread only. No comments about my writing, or other useless info because it WILL be deleted.


-Matt


00_buckshot
(Newbie)
06/28/06 03:12 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide** *DELETED*

Post deleted by 2000CivicStud

2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
06/28/06 07:17 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide** *DELETED*

Post deleted by 2000CivicStud

seanhpi
(Post Master Supreme)
06/28/06 08:42 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

2000civicstud.

Ive been using black majic dash wipes and they really do keep it clean and the step rails*(?) like u mentioned come out excellent with em also.. ice tried doing everything befor (like water and what not) but after using the wipes im really happy with it..

ohh and smells like oranges kinda....


2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
06/28/06 11:27 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

I have also been very pleased with numerous Black Magtic products. but some thing I dont like is that they leave everything VERY shiny, and I dont think that looks as nice as a nice matte finish.

-Matt


2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
06/29/06 09:17 AM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Wheel care added.


-Matt


seanhpi
(Post Master Supreme)
06/29/06 08:54 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Quote:

I have also been very pleased with numerous Black Magtic products. but some thing I dont like is that they leave everything VERY shiny, and I dont think that looks as nice as a nice matte finish.

-Matt



pinch some of the liquid out of the wipe befor using..


2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
06/29/06 10:10 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

I use the spray, not the wipe, and its the formula, not the amount of the product that is shiny.

-Matt


2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
07/16/06 09:09 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Hmm. No I havent, as a matter of fact, Ive never heard of doing that. I use vinegar sometimes on windows. Sure its safe on paint?


-matt


CORONA.ESQ
(Post Master Supreme)
07/19/06 01:23 AM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

I don't know that I would trust vinegar on my paint... how bad are these water spots you have? I can't imagine having water spots so bad that a Porter-Cable won't take care of it. Plus, on properly protected paint, water spots shouldn't really set in that bad. Even when my sprinklers douse the side of my car, and it bakes in 90F heat for a few days, usually I just need to wash the car to get the water spots off.

As for the dish soap, I use it occasionally, but I really don't think it's necessary. I also think it take its toll on rubber weather stripping, wiper blades, etc. if you do it often and don't treat those parts with a rubber protectant.


UnLoyal
(Newbie)
07/20/06 03:23 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Good job Matt.

Justin


ame540EBPsi
(Post Master Sr)
07/20/06 05:44 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Nice writeup. I will suggest for those who don't like the two bucket method, get yourself a grit guard. They rule.



CORONA.ESQ
(Post Master Supreme)
07/21/06 03:28 AM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

It's also a bit of an exercise in common sense. If you wash your car weekly, and on detailing day it's just dusty with maybe some water spots, two buckets isn't really necessary for the paint. I prefer to use a 100% USA cotton towel for scrubbing, and I will just hose it out good once or twice during the wash process. Of course, if your car is filthy, has road salt, etc, then the two bucket method is far more important.

For the most part, I think it's much more important to have a separate bucket (and towel/scrub brush/etc) for your wheels and tires. Even after just a couple days, they're filthy, and you don't want ANY of that stuff getting in with the materials you use to clean the paint.


seanhpi
(Post Master Supreme)
08/07/06 09:57 AM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

ok so i wash my car like every other week or so.. but im stuck on gettin bugs off my car, i literally wash my car 3 times, and still they stay, ive tried the rainx bug and tar remover and that only works for some of it.....

what else can I use...


2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
08/07/06 10:05 AM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

You can use a scotch brite pad, but if its black, I wouldnt really recommend that. Also, the bug and tar remover should work if you use enough elbow grease. For some reason Im having a mind block, and keep think of other things I use. Ill check back if I think of some things.


edit: rubbing compound can work if you use it very lightly.

-matt


gd1237
(Newbie)
08/07/06 02:30 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

I used some black magic products and there stuff is pretty good. I dont know if its becuase I'm a noob but this stuff works awesome.

2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
08/07/06 04:29 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Ive had mixed results with black magic. Their interior stuff is fairly good, but leaves the finish VERY shiny, which i dont care for. Their wheel cleaner SUCKS. But, yea, their stuff is pretty good.


-matt


MIGHTYWhiteDSM520
(Post Master Supreme)
08/15/06 03:48 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Mothers Back to Black works magic. It's amazing stuff.

I bought a very VERY neglected 91 4runner last week and this weekend I spent 7+ hours on the paint and exterior plastics this weekend. I used Zymol. I've been very happy with the results I get from it. Wish I had a clay bar though, I did it on Sunday and had nowhere to buy one.


2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
08/15/06 09:17 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

It does work wonders, but it does NOT completely restore color. If your car has been out in the elements for years on end with no shelter, it will NOT restore it back to original finish.

-matt


Drown411
(Poster)
08/17/06 10:22 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

I would have to agree on the big post above I bought a 2003 RSX Type S about 6 months ago (traded in my 00 EBP Si) and 2 weeks ago I took a Saturday and did the whole thing (exterior). I washed , Clayed and then used Mothers 3 step system and I must say the results were phenominal.

Two things I noticed with the claybar I agree with washing the car after claying it to get all the lube off. As for the lube I recomend the quick detailer that comes with it. I tried the soapy water and it tended to break the clay down faster. So much so that after only doing 1.5 cars it had to be replaced.

Here are a few shots once it was done the reflection ion the paint was amazing and the finish was so smooth after the clay bar tha a towel on the hood just slid off.

(Yes I know it still needs a drop and the black out headlights done they are on the list I swear)





PurduinaSi
(Post Master Sr)
09/27/06 01:13 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

I've heard that the correct order to wax is using a polish, glaze, sealant and then finish off with a wax.

From your steps, I'm guessing the swirl remover is the polish and the carnuba is the sealant?

Also, where can I pick up new pads for my 7424?


2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
09/27/06 02:18 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

http://www.superiorcarcare.net/dual-action-polishers.html?gclid=CNWV9LjEzocCFShpVAodOlyxzA


-matt


SiAdam
(Post Master Supreme)
09/27/06 03:31 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

88 Page Detailing Guide.

Right Click Save as:



2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
09/28/06 01:07 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

From Delano777:

these are the car care products i have. what order should i use them in. i want my paint to look great....not just good. i'm willing to put in the work too.

.meguires clay bar system
.meguires scratch X
.klasse polish/cleaner (step 1)
.klasse sealant glaze (step 2)
.meguires tech wax

Any other suggestions to make it look really good? I'm looking to do a detail overhaul this or next weekend.

What should i use to remove the clay bar residue after i clay it? just water?

Thank you


---------------------------------

Read through the how-to first, and then see if you still need this answered. Also, check out the link that Adam posted right above this post. Its very large but full of good info. As for me, I would always wash again after claying. As for Meguairs Scratch X, I find the Professional Series Swirl Remover 2.0 to be much better and it is still easy to use. If youre really wanting to get your car looking good, and are doing this by hand, save up for a PC7424. If you already have one, then pick up the aforementioned product and use that. Works much better in my opinion.

-matt


cmansi
(Newbie)
10/01/06 02:38 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

i have to ask i use eagle 1 car wash and meguires tech wax paste, i also use scratch-x the meguires stuff works awasome,a quick story, i detailed just the outside of a 2000 blk jetta that had about 5 years of automatic car washes on it so as you detail guys know that screamed !!!!!!NIGHTMARE!!!!!! straight out the gate. i used meguires heavey cutting machine compound, than meguires polishing compound (as you would find in a bodyshop) than topped everything off w/meguires tech wax (both had anti-swirl agents in them) and am pleased to say my 4 hr exterior detail looked just like the day i did it 4 months later with just a simple wash, and suprisinglly enough water still bead up everywhere after i repeat still bead up after a good ol mass winter, that means rock salt and sand. he was my co-worker and had about a 40 mile trip each way on the hwy. that after 10 years detailing impressed me. tech wax is the most durable wax i have ever used. i also use it on my blk si.
However i never used armor all i herd it will eventually lead to cracking and ive seen what it does to tires (i manage a tire store) what are your thoughts, if anyone is reading this from RI MASS CONN OR NH i works @ town fair tire in brockton, mention this website and ill hook you up, everyone could use a friend when it comes time for tires.


2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
10/01/06 04:30 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

I must say, I am absolutely in love with Armor All's new Tire shine in Gel Formula. It has an applicator sponge, and works the best Ive ever used. I dont use it on customers cars though, just mind. :-P Haha, anyways, Tech Wax is good as well, and I do find it to be fairly durable.

-matt


onewayout
(Newbie)
02/17/07 06:55 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

does any one know how to get scuff marks from boots out of the door pannal I have used Armor Alls Original formula after there genarel wipes would love some suggestions.

2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
02/17/07 08:14 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Aerospace 303 cleaner works well, but anything you use will have to have a fair amount of elbow grease in it too.

Best of luck,
Matt


FlyBySi
(Jr Poster)
02/19/07 07:38 AM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

What would you reccomend to clean up the engine bay area, and underside of the hood?

2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
02/19/07 07:46 AM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Simple Green. Spray on, let it sit for 3-5 minutes, pressure wash, annnnnnnd be amazed. However, Meguiars Scratch X, is VEEEEERY good at removing ugly front bumpers. *hint hint*

-Matt

edit: and spoilers.


FlyBySi
(Jr Poster)
02/19/07 04:18 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

I just got the OEM bumper in waiting on the lip. Purduina Si's trunk should be here next week. Thanks lol.

2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
02/19/07 08:04 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Very good. And yea, your sidemarkers are going to be tough to fix, althought Im not a body-work specialist. Hence the detailing post how-to.

-Matt


SiAdam
(Post Master Supreme)
03/19/07 09:24 AM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Go through and check a couple of your click me's...linked to the same product...


Great writeup!!


zdizzle
(Jr Poster)
02/07/08 08:49 AM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

that detailing hb was awesome late thanx

2000CheetahStud
(Post Master Supreme)
02/07/08 12:39 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

Welcome.

FCobra94
(Post Master Supreme)
02/13/09 08:36 AM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

 Originally Posted By: SiAdam
88 Page Detailing Guide.

Right Click Save as:


Awesome guide! Thanks!

That should be a sticky.


FBP EM1
(Post Master)
10/06/09 10:40 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

i just skimmed thru it. pretty good.

yookehjohn
(Newbie)
08/02/10 06:27 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

thanks

Boid Guru
(Newbie)
05/07/11 11:10 PM
Re: **CivicStud's Official Detailing Guide**

<---13yrs experience in automotive finishes. Caring for paint is fairly simple.

Your clearcoat is essentially a plastic coating. Most anything that touches it, will scratch it to some degree. The key is to minimize contact with anything, ie a pressure washer works wonders.

Assuming the paint in question is of excellent quality, these are the steps I would follow to bring back to life, the most overwashed, scratchy, dulled out, black paint job on the planet.

1. Spot "wetsand" prominent scratches, the grit you choose is dependent on your buffing "skills" and compounds involved. I normally use 1500 grit and have no issues getting out the sand marks.

2. Heavy cut, white wool pad with heavy cut compound. This will get rid of any harsh surface wear, it will bring dull back to shiny and rid the car of most tar/sap contaminants. Because of the heavy cut nature, there will be many swirls left behind.

3. Heavy cut foam pad, with mid-grade abrasive compound. This should remove any and all abrasions left from step 2.

4. Very fine foam pad, with highly residual compound. This is the final step in polishing, it will smoothen out everything and give it that wet appearance.

5. Wax the vehicle, using a clean sponge wax applicator. The higher concentration of carnuba, the better outcome you will have. Use a debri free microfiber towel to remove the wax, by NO means use any terry cloth towels, tshirts or dirty underwear.

6. Using a pressure washer, get all the cracks and crevices. This should remove any extra compound, hopefully you've taped any rubber moldings that may degrade with contact from the previous buffing. I'll use a half moon sponge to go over jams, etc.

7. Dry the car, using a SHAMMY and a SHAMMY alone. Water blades are fast, but I just don't trust them on a freshly finished car.

8. When possible, use a compressor and air tool to blow out cracks and crevices, following up with a shammy.

9. Invest in some spray wax. Once the car is dry, go over with a quick spray wax using a microfiber towel.

Maintenance would be touchless car washes, followed by a blow off and a spray wax each time.

There is absolutely NO reason anything other than a microfiber towel should ever touch your vehicle while it is dry. While wet, a clean sponge will cause the least amount of damage, NO TOWELS TO WASH OR DRY YOUR CAR.

Doing step 4 bi-monthly will keep your car looking better than new.

Anything more than what I said is useless. I would be surprised to witness someone who's better at automotive finish maintenance than I am. Do not attempt to use a high speed buffer on your baby, unless you know how to use it.. Practice on the family van, that's how I got started. There are no magic in a bottle products, they are gimmicks. Products don't really matter, if my steps are followed and you're using something similarly described.

P.S. Wheel shine is garbage, attracts debri. Use vinyl conditioner on your tires, they stay dry, black and new looking, without splashing grease up and down your ride.