First of all let me start off by saying I’m not very good at these things but I wanted to add something to the N/A forums that has helped me so much over the course of owning my car. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY FACE DUE TO IMPROPER INSTALL/REMOVAL TECHNIQUES OR FAILURE TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS PROVIDED.

Now that we have that out of the way I can start. First step is to start out by first going here, http://www.carenthusiast.com/crxuk/VTEC_Supplement.pdf after your there your going to want to go into the “engine” “cylinder head removal/installation” section. Once there you will need to print out pages 99-110. Which prints the helms pages 5-47 through 5-58. This is a detailed manual of all the things you will need to do the work and all of the torque specs exc... You’ll want along the way.
Once you’ve done this we can begin, disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any engine work on your car. Before I start on this project I like to remove all the bolt on’s to get it out of the way for the boring tedious things that will follow. Start off with your intake then do your header.

Then do the following before removal of the intake manifold.
1. drain the coolant
2. relieve fuel pressure
3. Disconnect the fuel feeder hose. ( continue to follow instructions in your printed out helms. That starts on page 5-51 on. These should tell you how to begin and although they list to do these first. I like to get the bolt on’s out of the way first as I said earlier.

Once the intake manifold, header, and intake are all removed and the coolant and fuel pressure have been taken care of we can start the fun.
1. Remove your valve cover and timing belt covers.

2. Loosen the timing belt adjusting bolt releasing pressure on the timing belt. i like to set the car at TDC before i do this. there is a white line on the crank pulley that lines up with a marker on the lower timing belt cover. take the spark plugs out before rotating the crank pully with a socket so you don't have to fight compression and PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL. TDC is important as you must mark the distributor so that when you put it back on the head later you can make sure your timing remains where it was.

3.loosen the valve adjusting screws then the cam shaft holders then the cams are
Out.

Easy as pie see. If you’re doing a cam swap and it doesn’t include new valve train. Such as ctr/itr/skunk2 stage 1 and your keeping stock redline so you don’t need new valve train you can simply pull the cams out from here and swap in your new cams and install everything in reverse order and you’re done.
However for the rest of us who want to do valve train/ head removal. Bear with me.
Following the steps listed from pages 5-48 through 5-53 will get the cylinder head off. As after the cam shaft holders are removed the head bolts are exposed and it’s a simple task of removing the bolts… ( NOTE) loosen the bolts in a criss cross pattern in 2 or 3 steps beginning with the outer nuts to avoid warping the head and studs.

i look funny here cuz posing with the head this way its not exactly feather weight. lol

At this point your head is off and you’re ready to do your valve train if you’re doing a cam swap that does require new valve train. Personally I recommend taking the head to a pro to have your valve train installed. Most valve spring compressors don’t fit the b series heads and it only costs about 40 bucks to have a machine shop mount your new valve train.
Once that is installed follow the detailed instructions of the head installation.
For the rest of you who plan on doing headwork and such. Take her down to the machine shop and get that thing taken care of. When the head is returned to you simply grab your instructions and start from page 5-54 to 5-58. I recommend getting new head studs for reinstallation of the head., also new head gasket, new intake manifold gasket, cam seals, valve seals, i recommend replacing as well. there's probably a few i left out but there is a print out in the helms with text next to what you need to replace so. I’m getting a little tired and I've taken a few pics to help you get a visual of what’s going on. When I have time I’ll document the installation process but so far we have the removal basically taken care of and I hope this post helps out a few people along the way. In about month I’ll do a similar post on installation for those interested. Stay on the edge of your seats... lol.

i'd like to thank my father who was out there on the front lines with me yesterday helping me with the work. its nice to do this with at least one more set of hands. we took a few beer breaks and a dinner break and although it may seem intimidating its really very simple if you follow instructions. start time was 4:30pm saturday night and we finished around 9:45.

Mike.

tools needed.
socket set.
screw drivers
pliars to break loose hoses
torque wrench
breaker bar comes in handy if your not strong enough to break loose the head bolts

estimated time for this job is anywhere from 5 hours or so to 8 hours. depending on how many breaks you take and what your comfort level is on how fast you want to move.

for a complete list of gaskets and seals that need to be replaced see the first 3 pages of the helms manual link i posted.