Im getting ready to throw my head on but in need of advice. The stock headstuds in a b16a2 are 11's correct? I have ARP head studs and they are 7/16. Why is one a metric thread and the other standard? What chaser should I use. I know that arp makes a 7/16 chaser but if the threads in the block are metric how are you supposed to chase them.
Registered: 12/20/99
Posts: 15410
Loc: Providence, RI
there should be no need to retap. arp's just screw in.
_________________________
<x> i had a weird dream <x> where i lived in an apartment complex <x> walked down the street, and kyden and a couple other dudes were living in an apartment and ran outside looking for the maintenance people <x> and something about taking a shit in a sealed toilet
They are covering their asses. If you can screw them in with two fingers, why would you need to rechase the threads?
_________________________ wtf is wrong with your head? that's like asking "if i get shot in the heart with a .357, will i die any more than getting shot with a .44?" - jsmonet
They told me it was for "Full thread engagement". I questioned it also. I called them and that is what I was told.. I dont really understand it. Do you lube the threads of the studs going into the block also?
the threads in the block are clean and they thread in fairly easily all the way down till they bottom out. I cleaned them w/ brake cleaner and air. Maybe I will just go with it. I still need to know if you should moly those threads into the block......
i would put the lube on the threads supposedly it is supposed to give you a more accurate torque reading
_________________________
The point of war is not to die for your country, but to make the other bastard die for his and not to determine who is right, but who is left
Registered: 07/29/02
Posts: 8828
Loc: Bellingham, WA
if the studs screw in with your fingers all the way then there's no need to chase the threads. if they don't go in easily then retap them. Yes you lube the threads into the block.
ARP told me to torque to 70 w/their moly lube 20,40,70 break loose retorque is that what you guys recomend for torque. Do you need to retorque after the first engine run???
you should not need to retorque the studs, the first time should be all you need.
_________________________
The point of war is not to die for your country, but to make the other bastard die for his and not to determine who is right, but who is left
Registered: 04/28/00
Posts: 1833
Loc: On A Whole New Level
Originally Posted By: drpoopmanchu
ARP told me to torque to 70 w/their moly lube 20,40,70 break loose retorque is that what you guys recomend for torque. Do you need to retorque after the first engine run???
According to the directions 70ft.lbs is correct the only thing from the factory you follow is the tightening sequence. And I put that moly lube on everything...on the threads before i finger tightened,on the washers,and on the threads on the bolts. should be done with mine tomorrow
Just imagine the cross-section of a bolt in a threaded hole. If there is a little bit of dirt there it reduces the contact area between the bolt and hole. It is also bad for the aluminum threads in the block in any threaded hole.
_________________________
This website doesn't do me justice.
Registered: 07/29/02
Posts: 8828
Loc: Bellingham, WA
just what i said before. if they finger in then you're fine. if there's any resistance then you need to chase them. there's no need to chase perfectly good threads.
just what i said before. if they finger in then you're fine. if there's any resistance then you need to chase them. there's no need to chase perfectly good threads.
Bingo.
_________________________
05 Berlina Black S2000 700whp / 500wtq Built, not bought.