#104021 - 07/18/05 10:12 AM
Ok...last place you will ever have to look. [FAQ]
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SiAdam
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 07/22/01
Posts: 19275
Loc: WV
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I have been in the process of collecting all the information that we always are looking for, into one page......or several for sake of arguement...
I know this list isn't all inclusive as of yet, but hopefully with your help, it can be.
Please add or modify what you think would work and I will add to it....
Thanks....
1. First things first, decide what goals you have for yourself and your car. What do you expect?
2. Do you want a street/strip weekend warrior, or just a quicker daily driver?
3. With that said, any time you modify a vehicle expect some headaches along the way. If you don't have the extra TIME & money to do it correctly, please save yourself, your car and your bank account the trouble and don't do it at all.
4. Where do you want your power to come from? Nitrous, Supercharger or a Turbocharger. Nitrous is not covered in this article, but can be found here . A supercharger usually consists of a kit that comes with what you need, although it will still need tuned. Lastly a Turbocharger, in which case you are in the right place, so please carry on.
These are all important questions you need to answer.
**Some Common Questions about Boost.
Q: What is better, a turbo or a s/c ?
A: Neither. One may fit your budget, lifestyle or goals better.
Q: Vortech or JRSC?
A: Again back to your goals and budget. If you are looking for something with a bit more potential and power, Vortech(read: added cost). If you are looking for more pep from your daily driver, choose JRSC. (to make either last and run reliable, they WILL NEED TUNED also, NO EXCEPTIONS.....
Turbo Shopping List for D & B Series Honda Motors.
Tuning (street, dyno)
This item is usually the last to be considered. When actually it needs to be the FIRST. Know before you even purchase any parts where you plan to dyno your vehicle and how much they charge so you can budget accordingly. You can pay someone with a dyno and experience to tune your car, or you can do it yourself. I recommend at the very least trying to street tune it yourself, if you are familiar with the nuances of tuning,timing and a/f ratio's. For peak whp and ignition tuning, a dyno is still required.
1. you will need a wideband 02 sensor. (found anywhere for $300, I use the Plx M-300, geat start)
2. also a boost guage (autometer 50)
3. uberdata/crome offers everything you need to tune your car, including datalogging, if you so desire.
4. you need a way of communicating with the ecu via your computer.
you can either buy a chip burner for ~$50 or the Moates.net Ostritch for $170 (recomended)
Stand-Alone (Neptune, Crome, UberData, Hondata-all require what is listed, and will allow you to make the adjustments necesarry to reliably turbocharge your honda/acura)
1. OBDI ecu, usually a P28 (found online for under $100)
2. Socketing kit for the ecu. (can be sent out and chipped for under $50)
3. Wiring Adapter if needed to convert from ObdII --> ObdI (found online for under $100)
4. Peak and hold Injectors or Saturated Injectors (depending on size, can be found online for $250-$350). Peak and hold reccomended because of faster response, requires a resistor to be wired into the ground wire coming off of the injector.
5.Fuel Pump (walbro 255lph for 100shipped with install kit)
6. Spark plugs- you need colder spark plugs, most of us use NGK BKR7E plugs (2.50 a piece at any local parts store)
PiggyBack (will only let you adjust fuel, very rough adjustments, cannot change timing)---this crap is not even worth covering in this faq.
1. Vafc (apexi) (allows you to add fuel adjustments and control the vtec engagement point)
2. Missing Link (check valve that fools the map sensor from seeing boost)
3. FMU (it connects to your intake manifold via a vacumn line. when it reads boost it will add extra fuel, more fuel for more boost. It is very crude, obviously it makes no timing adjustemnts.)
**Why none of these items are recomended
Fuel and Spark Control
You first need to be able to not only add more fuel, but control how much fuel you add. In the process of making more power, it is important to change when the spark plugs fire. Often with boosting, timing will need to be retarded (spark plug fires later than normal) because the compressed air will burn faster than the normal air.
Turbo (turbo size controls when power comes on and when it dies off, and how much power comes on when it does)
1. Ball Bearing (garret) (found online for 1000+)
2. Journal Bearing (garret, precision) (found online from 500+)
-Turbo Gasket Set (check to make sure it comes with turbo)
WasteGate used to regulate pressure in the intake manifold (how much boost you run).
-Internal
1. Comes with Turbo (if used [dont buy a used turbo], check for crack around wastegate port & flapper seals)
-External (Tial 38mm, fine for most apps, TurboSmart for low profile apps.) (found online for $225)
1. Spring Size (aim for 6-12psi, depending on goals)
2. Flange (should come with wastegate)
3. Gasket (should come with wastegate)
Boost Controller
-Electronic Boost Controller (Too many to list)
(found online for 50-500)
-Manual Boost Controller (DIY, Halman)
(found for as little as $5)
Turbo Manifold
-Log (some cast manifolds blox, inlinepro,BMC racing or HF manifold plus BMC adapter for D series
Neukin, Revhard as well as through a number of vendors on honda-tech) (found online for 200-300)
-Tubular (found through a number of honda-tech vendors for 600-1300)
Exhaust
- 2.5-3."¨ Down pipe (Has to be purchased, then fitted to your car by a local shop. Can be found online for $200-$400)
- 2.5-3" exhaust. Can be custom, kteller, thermal, whatever. Try and save money here.
Gauges (even if your not tuning by youself) (no specfic order)
1. Boost (Defi, AutoMeter, Greddy) (go autometer, 50 a piece)
2. Oil Pressure (Defi, AutoMeter, Greddy) (price is the only factor)
3. Wideband (anything but Zeitronix due to problems with free software. $300)
4. EGT is nice (100)
Oil Lines & Fittings
-Fittings, Oil Feed, Oil Return (from any speed shop, will be cash. Honda-tech sponsers forum for $100)
Intercooler
-Intercooler (custom, precision, Johnny racecar) (found on ebay for $200)
-Intercooler Piping (steel, aluminum, SS)
1. Couplers (arpturbo.com) ($$$)
2. Clamps
1. Worm Clamps (local auto part store)
2, T Bolt (online) ($$$)
Bov
-Bov (What sounds good?) (150-200)
-Flange comes with new BOV
ValveTrain (if you want to extend your rev limit)
-Cams (Type R/CTR, GSR) (150-300)
1. Cam Gears (skunk2, AEM, GE) (100-200)
-Valve Springs (Skunk 2, SuperTech) (whole head package usually found for 500 minus cams)
-Retainers (Skunk2, SuperTech)
-Valves (Supertech)
Intake Manifold (Allows air to enter the engine more efficiently. This means more power on less boost, safer for your motor)
-Intake Manifold (Edlebrock) ($300)
-Throttle Body (BBK) ($200)
-Intake Manifold Gasket (Hondata, OEM) ($40)
Engine
-HeadStuds (ARP) (100-150)
-Pistons (CP, JE, Weisco, Suziki Vitara) (500)
-Rods (Eagle-450whp limit, Crower, Manley, Pauters) (300)
-Bearings (OEM, ACL) (100)
-Oil Pan (Moroso) (150)
-HeadGasket (OEM) (100)
-Sleeves (Beenson) (1000)
-Gasket Set (OEM) (???)
-Motor Mount Inserts (Energy Suspension) (30)
Transmission
-Clutch (CM Stage 3+, ACT 6 puck) (300)
-Lsd (Quaiffe) (800)
Suspension Mods (You will need to be able to get this new found power to the ground.)
-Traction Bars (1320 Custom Fab) (300)
-Springs/Shocks (Ground Control Coilover sleeves+high quality shocks. 800)
Tires
-stickier tires (Bfg, Azenis) (100 a pop)
Misc. (I recommend planning on ~$500 bucks for misc parts. This will come in handy later. )
1. Vacuum Lines
2. Vacuum Manifold
3. Oil Change (10w30)
4. Oil Filter
5. Magnetic Drain Plug
6. Tie Wraps
7. Duct Tape
8. Coolant Flush
9. Brake upgrade
10. Turbo Timer
11. Misc Flanges (RoadRaceEngineering.com)
12. Copper Spray can be substitued for gaskets if needed.
13. Catch Cans - Endyn, Moroso (get the one with two -10 AN outlets)
**Stock Blocks & Boost.
If you are wanting to boost your stock B or D series engine there are a few things you need to know. IF THE TIMING IS PROPERLY SET, and the afr are ok.
1. D series are good for ~220whp on stock internals
2. B series are good for ~300whp on stock internals.
Both assuming you have the proper tuning and engine management.
**Adding a Non-Aftermarket Turbo.
step 1: ask any manifold maker (check honda-tech fab forum) to make you a log manifold with the proper inlet turbo flange for your Dsm, Sti, etc...turbo.
step 2: purchase said turbo and manifold
step 3: you may have to ship the turbo and manifold (or just the turbo to the manifold maker) so a fabricator can attach the parts to a dummy block and mock up a downpipe that will fit properly. purchase this downpipe, if you don't have a fabricator in your area.
step 4: go to a local muffler shop and have them weld an exhaust flange onto the back of the downpipe so that it mates up to your existing exhaust. Or if the fabricator lives near you he may be able to do this for you. muffler shop will work fine.
step 5: read the faq, everything else you need is on here. If not, then you may post an intelligent question in the forums....
---------------------------------------------
Great sites with useful info.
www.honda-tech.com
www.homemadeturbo.com
www.clubsi.com
www.turbod16.com
www.pgmi.org
Honda-Tech's very own turbo FAQ
---------------------------------------------
Shorthand Guide to Turbocharging Your Stock Honda:
Crome/UberData to tune
1. P28 ($100)
2. Socketing ($50)
3. Wiring Adapter ($100)
4. Peak and hold Injectors$275)
5. Fuel Pump ($100)
6. Spark plugs ($10)
7. wideband 02 ($300)
8. gauges ($100)
9. Ostritch for Tuning ($170)
10.Boost Controller ($150)
Garrett T3/t4 turbo with simple cast manifold
1. t3/t4 .63ar 57trim ($550)
2. Tial 38mm ($250)
1. Blox/Inlinepro Manifold ($300)
2. 3" downpipe ($200)
3. 3" exhaust ($300)
OBX or JRC intercooler w/ custom or ebay piping
1. Intercooler ($200)
2. Charge Pipes ($200)
3. BOV ($150)
Sprung 6-puck clutch
1. Clutch ($300)
Misc
1. Thicker headgasket ($100)
2. ARP headstuds ($200)
3. G.C. Springs/Shocks ($800)
4. Oil and stuff($150)
All that adds up to ~5k. Just the fuel/spark, and a way to plumb the turbo into your
intake/exhaust and your looking at around ~3k in parts. This is all new.
With used parts you can piece together a kit for under ~2k, and sometimes with poor
quality parts (read beat up) you can get everything for under ~$1500.
Those prices include a lot of time and patience, you must learn to do the work yourself.
**If any of the items seem unreasonable or to expensive, you can always check here for other options...
Cost Saving Performance
**Disclaimer:
ClubSi nor its members, Site Admins, Moderators or otherwise, claim any responsibility for you or damage to your vehicle by following the articles stated in this forum. Please follow and attempt at your OWN RISK. All automotive repair and upgrades should be done with proper safety equipment under the supervision of a professional. By clicking on and following the above links you agree to the said terms and wherein remove all responsibility from ClubSi and its participants.
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#104028 - 07/18/05 02:19 PM
Re: Ok...last place you will ever have to look.
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shane two
Member
Registered: 02/20/05
Posts: 837
Loc: South Valley
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Quote:
Fuel and Spark Control
you need to be able to not only add more fuel, but controll how much fuel you add. In the process of making more power, it is important to change when the spark plugs fire. Often with boosting timing will need to be retarded (spark plug fires later than normal) because the compressed air will burn faster than the normal air.
Stand-Alone (Neptune, Crome UberData, Hondata-all require what is listed, and will allow you to make the adjustments necesarry to reliably turbocharge your honda/acura)
1. OBDI ecu, usually a P28 (found online for under $100)
2. Socketing kit for the ecu. (can be sent out and chipped for under $50)
3. Wiring Adapter if needed to convert from ObdII --> ObdI (found online for under $100)
4. Peak and hold Injectors or Saturated Injectors (depending on size, can be found online for $250-$350). Peak and hold reccomended because of faster response, requires a resistor to be wired into the ground wire coming off of the injector.
5.Fuel Pump (walbro 255lph for 100shipped with install kit)
6. Spark plugs- you need colder spark plugs, most of us use NGK BKR7E plugs (2.50 a piece at any local parts store)
PiggyBack (will only let you adjust fuel, very rough adjustments, cannot change timing)---this crap is not even worth covering in this faq.
1. Vafc (apexi)
2. Missing Link
Tuning (street, dyno)
Now that you know what you need, you need to actually controll the computer. You can pay someone with a Dyno and experience to tune your car, or you can do it yourself. I reccomend doing it yourself.
1. you will need a wideband 02 sensor. (found anywhere for $300)
2. gauges that you need are boost, oil press, and egt is nice (around $50 a piece if you use autometer)
3. uberdata offers everything you need to tune your car, including datalogging
4. you need a way of communicating with the ecu via your computer.
you can either buy a chip burner for ~$50 or the Moates.net Ostritch for $170 (recomended)
Turbo (turbo size controls when power comes on and when it dies off, and how much power comes on when it does)
1. Ball Bearing (garret) (found online for 1000+)
2. Journal Bearing (garret, precision) (found online from 500+)
-Turbo Gasket Set (check to make sure it comes with turbo)
WasteGate used to regulate pressure in the intake manifold (how much boost you run)
-Internal
1. Comes with Turbo (if used [dont buy a used turbo], check for crack around wastegate port & flapper seals)
-External (Tial 38mm, fine for most apps) (found online for $225)
1. Spring Size (aim for 5-9psi)
2. Flange (should come with wastegate)
3. Gasket (should come with wastegate)
Boost Controller
-Electronic Boost Controller (Too many to list)
(found online for 50-500)
-Manual Boost Controller (DIY, Halman)
(found for as little as $5)
Turbo Manifold
-Log (some cast manifolds blox/inlinepro, as well as through a number of vendors on honda-tech) (found online for 200-300)
-Tubular (found through a number of honda-tech vendors for 600-1300)
Exhaust
-2.5"¨ - 3.0"¨ Down pipe (Has to be purchased, then fitted to your car by a local shop. Can be found online for $200-$400)
2.5-3" exhaust. Can be custom, kteller, thermal, whatever. Try and save money here.
Gauges (even if your not tuning by youself)
1. Boost (Defi, AutoMeter, Greddy) (go autometer, 50 a piece)
2. Oil Pressure (Defi, AutoMeter, Greddy) (price is the only factor)
3. Wideband (anything but Zeitronix due to problems with free software. $300)
Oil Lines & Fittings
-Fittings, Oil Feed, Oil Return (from any speed shop, will be cash. Honda-tech sponsers forum for $100)
Intercooler
-Intercooler (custom, precision, Johnny racecar) (found on ebay for $200)
-Intercooler Piping (steel, aluminum, SS)
1. Couplers (arpturbo.com) ($$$)
2. Clamps
1. Worm Clamps (local auto part store) (:):):))
2, T Bolt (online) ($$$)
Bov
-Bov (What sounds good?) (150-200)
-Flange comes with new BOV
ValveTrain (if you want to extend your rev limit)
-Cams (Type R/CTR) (150-300)
1. Cam Gears (skunk2, AEM, GE) (100-200)
-Valve Springs (Skunk 2, SuperTech) (whole head package usually found for 500 minus cams)
-Retainers (Skunk2, SuperTech)
-Valves (Supertech)
Intake Manifold (if no built head, no intake manifold modifications. headwork comes first)
-Intake Manifold (Edlebrock) ($300)
-Throttle Body (BBK) ($200)
-Intake Manifold Gasket (Hondata, OEM) ($40)
Engine
-HeadStuds (ARP) (100-150)
-Pistons (CP, JE, Weisco, Suziki Vitara) (500)
-Rods (Eagle, Crower) (300)
-Bearings (OEM, ACL) (100)
-HeadGasket (OEM) (100)
-Sleeves (Beenson) (1000)
-Gasket Set (OEM) (???)
-Motor Mount Inserts (Energy Suspension) (30)
Transmission
-Clutch (CM Stage 3+, ACT 6 puck) (300)
-Lsd (Quaiffe) (800)
Suspension Mods
-Traction Bars (1320 Custom Fab) (300)
-Springs/Shocks (Ground Control Coilover sleeves+high quality shocks. 800)
Tires
-stickier tires (Bfg, Azenis) (100 a pop)
Misc.
1. Vacuum Lines
2. Vacuum Manifold
3. Oil Change (10w30)
4. Oil Filter
5. Magnetic Drain Plug
6. Tie Wraps
7. Duct Tape
8. Coolant Flush
9. Brake upgrade
10. Turbo Timer
11. Misc Flanges (RoadRaceEngineering.com)
**Stock Blocks & Boost.
If you are wanting to boost your stock B or D series engine there are a few things you need to know. IF THE TIMING IS PROPERLY SET, and the afr are ok.
1. D series are good for ~220whp on stock internals
2. B series are good for ~300whp on stock internals.
Both assuming you have the proper tuning and fuel management.
Great sites for useful info.
www.honda-tech.com
www.homemadeturbo.com
www.clubsi.com
www.turbod16.com
And this is my shorthand guide to turbocharging your stock honda:
Crome/UberData to tune
1. P28 ($100)
2. Socketing ($50)
3. Wiring Adapter ($100)
4. Peak and hold Injectors$275)
5. Fuel Pump ($100)
6. Spark plugs ($10)
7. wideband 02 ($300)
8. gauges ($50)
9. Ostritch for ($170)
10.Boost Controller ($150)
Garrett T3/t4 turbo with simple cast manifold
1. t3/t4 .63ar 57trim ($550)
2. Tial 38mm ($250)
1. Blox/Inlinepro Manifold ($300)
2. 3" downpipe ($300)
3. 3" exhaust ($400)
OBX or JRC intercooler w/ custom or ebay piping
1. Intercooler ($200)
2. Charge Pipes ($300)
3. BOV ($150)
Sprung 6-puck clutch
1. Clutch ($300)
Misc
1. Thicker headgasket ($100)
2. ARP headstuds ($200)
3. G.C. Springs/Shocks ($800)
4. Oil and shit ($150)
all that adds up to 5k. Just the fuel/spark, and a way to plumb the turbo into your
intake/exhaust and your looking at around 3k in parts. This is all new.
With used parts you can piece together a kit for under 2k, and sometimes with poor
quality parts (read beat up) you can get everything for under 1500.
Those prices include a lot of time and patience, you must learn to do the work yourself.
Edited by shane two (07/19/05 12:45 AM)
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#104031 - 07/18/05 03:57 PM
Re: Ok...last place you will ever have to look.
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AMS
Jr Member
Registered: 11/27/04
Posts: 507
Loc: MA
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Under the 'Turbo' section, thrust bearing should really be journal bearing.
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#104036 - 07/19/05 03:10 AM
Re: Ok...last place you will ever have to look.
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SamuraiSam
Post Master Sr
Registered: 07/29/02
Posts: 8828
Loc: Bellingham, WA
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I don't know where to put this info... but something about fittings and lines for oil and coolant lines, tapping oil pans, and info about the Moroso oil pan, oil coolers, etc. an external oil cooler and moroso oil pan net better pick-up, cooling (the moroso pan also cools the oil alot more then the stock pan), differences in ITR water pump and oil ring gear, options for aftermarket Turbo cams IE Crower turbo cams (really good short duration high lift cams for high HP apps), edelbrock intake manifold and any other "good for turbo" mani's, umm, i don't know what im even talking about any more, its late /im tired/i'll post tomorrow...
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#104037 - 07/19/05 08:59 AM
Re: Ok...last place you will ever have to look.
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BlueShadow
Jr Member
Registered: 03/21/00
Posts: 430
Loc: somewhere in California
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#104039 - 07/20/05 09:51 AM
Re: Ok...last place you will ever have to look. [FAQ]
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Turbo_Civic_Si
Member
Registered: 07/23/01
Posts: 886
Loc: TX
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I would re-arrange the guages to this order
1. EGT
2. Boost/Vacuum
3. AFR
4. Oil Pressure
For guages, i would definately include the EGT guage over a AFR and oil pressure gauge (assuming the stock pressure switch is still being used). the afr won't tell you that you are about to melt something nor that you are blowing your mixture staight out your exhaust port during overlap. Also, hands down, doing any kind of "hack" other than some kind of fuel management system is pointless and should not be bothered with due to insufficient tuning capabilities. The reason for the AFR at #3 is b/c if you are using one of the fuel management systems, chances are you probably invested in a WBO2 and you are datalogging and tuning the car based of the recorded AFR. so you still have a way to monitor your AFR with or w/o the gauge.
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#104040 - 07/20/05 10:22 AM
Re: Ok...last place you will ever have to look. [FAQ]
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shane two
Member
Registered: 02/20/05
Posts: 837
Loc: South Valley
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#104046 - 07/20/05 12:27 PM
Re: Ok...last place you will ever have to look. [FAQ]
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EngineNoO9
Post Master Supreme
Registered: 05/08/04
Posts: 20610
Loc: VA
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Quote:
Quote:
minor note. but change under max hp numbers to:
Both assuming you have the proper tuning and ENGINE management.
changed from fuel management. When i see fuel management I tend to think that a "hack" is being used like vafc, safc, blue box, e-manage, etc... Engine management clarifies that to hit those numbers you really need to have something like ubder, hondata, the aem system, etc...
[/Changed]
7.20.05
oh and not something to add to your post but to mine is that to hit those numbers SAFELY you need engine management. people with FMU's can hit those but will most likely kill it quickly if not the same day 
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#104047 - 07/20/05 05:02 PM
Re: Ok...last place you will ever have to look. [FAQ]
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Turbo_Civic_Si
Member
Registered: 07/23/01
Posts: 886
Loc: TX
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assume you have a perfect mixture going into your engine. during overlap you will blow out some boost, but not only will you blow out boost, you will also blow out the fuel that went into the cylinder and blowing out that extra fuel means a leaner cylinder. but your afr shows a nice mix b/c the air and fuel that went in and blew out is burning as it passes through the turbine. an EGT b/4 and after the turbo would show cooler turbine inlet and hotter outlet and would make reason as to why an EGT is important.
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#104048 - 07/20/05 05:18 PM
Re: Ok...last place you will ever have to look. [FAQ]
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crvtecrob
Member
Registered: 12/06/04
Posts: 878
Loc: PVB, FL
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http://www.htturbo.com/guide.gif
Just came across this troubleshooting guide. Just a quick reference for post turbo install problems.
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#104049 - 07/20/05 06:47 PM
Re: Ok...last place you will ever have to look. [FAQ]
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shane two
Member
Registered: 02/20/05
Posts: 837
Loc: South Valley
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Quote:
assume you have a perfect mixture going into your engine. during overlap you will blow out some boost, but not only will you blow out boost, you will also blow out the fuel that went into the cylinder and blowing out that extra fuel means a leaner cylinder. but your afr shows a nice mix b/c the air and fuel that went in and blew out is burning as it passes through the turbine. an EGT b/4 and after the turbo would show cooler turbine inlet and hotter outlet and would make reason as to why an EGT is important.
your not helping anyone. you didn't clarify that. y ou are just nit picking at my response. a wb02 is more accurate as far as determining what is going on than an egt. four wb02 > 1 wb02, likewise 2egt > 1egt. ideally we would want 4afr gauges one in each runner and four egts one in each runner. but thats not what this guide is about. tis about helping people turbo thier honda, and to do that it is highly reccomended to always run with a WB going.
we all know how much goes into a proper fuel mixture (meaning what the WB sensor can read) and again, that isn't what this thread is about  No matter how much you pick across the argument, your only saying 'you should get an egt gauge before a wideband'
and if you want to propegate that, be my guest... but dont say that an egt gauge is more usefull than a wb, cause part for part they are not. EGT is something that you have on top of a wideband, the combo will let you interpolate about your motor.
_________________________
"My Si, when it was stock was a low 15 second car..."
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#104051 - 07/21/05 09:20 AM
Re: Ok...last place you will ever have to look. [FAQ]
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BlueShadow
Jr Member
Registered: 03/21/00
Posts: 430
Loc: somewhere in California
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The way I see it a BOOST GAUGE is a "must have" item along with a WIDEBAND, either your own, a borrowed one or the one at your tuning shop just so you can verify your AFR's are good. After that OIL PRESSURE, WATER TEMP, FUEL PRESSURE, , EGT, OIL TEMP etc, etc and in no particular order.
Without the wideband then how can you even begin to tune your AFR? An EGT gauge is useful as a warning device and for dialing out overlap or for monitoring misfires. But having a good AFR reading takes priority over being able to read EGT.
If you can get both WBO2 and EGT, get both. But if you have to choose between WBO2 and EGT, choose WBO2 first and get the EGT later.
_________________________
-1989 Ford Probe GT (stock, pos) **SOLD**
-1999 EBP Civic SI (modded) **SOLD**
-2001 EBP Prelude Base (almost stock) **SOLD**
-1993 VR RX-7 R1 (modded, 280 RWHP) **RIP**
-1991 Red CRX DX (turbo B18C in the works)
-1990 White CRX DX (stock)
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#104055 - 07/22/05 11:46 AM
Re: Ok...last place you will ever have to look. [FAQ]
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shane two
Member
Registered: 02/20/05
Posts: 837
Loc: South Valley
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Moderator: M3Pilot or M3Driver, SiAdam, The Mad Paki
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between both of these faqs a noob could choose, install, and enjoy a turbo without even making one post 
